curls

So yesterday AM, my car didn't start. I had noticed a faint whining noise from the engine compartment for the few days prior. Also, my airbag light was flickering on/off, particularly at low rpm.
Boosted the car and checked voltage -- 11.70vdc --> bad alternator.
Picked up a remanufactured AC Delco the same day and got to work swapping it in the same evening.

I've read many threads here and elsewhere saying that the alternator is a real pain to change, and to expect 2-3 hours of time or more. PITA lower mounting bolts, etc etc etc...

Well, maybe I was just real lucky, but I found this R&R to be real straightforward and simple and am sharing some tips to make your life easier should you ever be faced with this repair.

(Sorry, no pictures)
I've bolded the steps I found worked easier for me than most accounts from others online.


Steps:

1. Disconnect battery + and - cables. (Don't forget to have your radio code handy for later...)

2. Remove radiator overflow reservoir (2 10mm bolts). Just tuck it out of the way - no need to spill any antifreeze.

3. Remove radiator fan - passenger side (2 10mm bolts, 2 electrical clips)

4. Lift up on the power steering reservoir and tuck it closer to the headlight / washer fluid neck. (no bolts/clips)

5. Use the special Honda tensioner pulley tool, or a double-wrench method to remove tension on the drive/accessory belt, and remove the belt from the power steering pump pulley.

6. Use a 3/8" drive, 12mm deep socket and remove the lower mounting bolts. I've heard of people using u-joints, swivel sockets, or 1/2" drive with extensions... there's no need as the standard 3/8" drive, 12mm deep socket gives the perfect length without being too 'fat' to fit between the AC lines.

7. Use the same 3/8" drive, 12mm deep socket to partially remove the upper mounting bolt. This one is LONG but only threaded about 3/4 of an inch. Careful - don't remove it fully at this time.

8. Use a 1/4" drive, 10mm socket to remove the B+ terminal on the alternator, now that the alternator is slightly clear of the intake manifold. Don't try using a wrench on this as it's a real soft nut and you'll round it off. Wait to remove this until this exact step!

9. Remove the green plug from alternator, and tuck the wires for this plug and the B+ terminal off to the side.

10. Fully remove the 12mm upper mounting bolt - careful, as the alternator will drop if you're not holding it!

11. Rotate the alternator 90 degrees so the pulley is facing down. You can then work it between the IM and the radiator - remember, that fan is removed so there's plenty of room!

12. (Optional): I have UR aluminum pulleys, so I swapped my pulley to the new alternator

13. Swap the metal bracket from old alternator to new one - this is the receptacle for the wire harness clip. 8mm socket.

14. Install in the reverse order of removal. Key notes are to secure the upper bolt only loosely FIRST, then attach the B+ ring terminal, then feed the 2 lower mounting bolts in and torque down snug, then re-attach the green plug to new alternator. Then torque the upper bolt snug.


It took me about an hour to do everything, but add a half hour because I was a bit of a moron and somehow used my ratchet/socket to relieve pressure on the tensioner pulley and it got completely jammed between the pulley and the side motor mount! DOH.

Compared to changing the starter, the alternator was an absolute piece of cake!

I hope this is useful to you guys and gals here!

npolite

Curls,

I'm running into a problem and trying to localize it to an alternator or just a recently (3 months ago) replaced OEM battery. Did you get any alternator light on prior to changing out the alternator? Also how many miles do you have on your vehicle?

Thanks,
Nick

curls

Sorry for the late response!


No alt light, but I heard a very strange whine from that general area. It was once I realized the battery was not charging (non-start / dead battery condition) that I used the multimeter to check voltage with the car on -- under 12v. Dead alternator was my diagnosis especially considering the noise it was making.
I also had some sporadic flashing lights - airbag and battery light were both on/off sporadically, sometimes for a second, sometimes for a dozen seconds.
Car has 265,000km... about 165k miles.

npolite

Thanks for the update.

Integral9

Thanks for the write up. I just performed the service on my '07 @ 150k, went exactly as described. The hardest parts were disconnecting the fan and getting the alternator out once it was unbolted. Took me about 2 hours because I am not a mechanic.

The fan wiring was anchored to the housing with a plastic clip which had to be removed to remove the fan. The top wire was a piece of cake, but the bottom wire was not so easy. Used a flat head to disconnect the wire and then need it again to release it from the metal clip anchoring it to the housing.

One thing that wasn't obvious to me was how to slack the belt to remove it. So FFR, set your socket wrench to tighten and pull the wrench towards the bumper (tightening the nut) to slack the tension on the serpentine belt. The pulley will move in the opposite direction towards the firewall. Once you are done it does take a bit of wiggling to remove your wrench as the engine mount gets in the way.

TexasHonda

My alternator gave up the ghost today when wife attempted to leave. Battery light and Message to "Check Charging System". I installed my Equus battery voltage monitor in cigarette lighter socket and measured < 12V. It would get to 12.2V on high idle.

So I followed Curls procedure w/ a couple of additions. I removed PS pump and pulled out of the way w/ bungee and removed PCV hose and valve. Alternator came up and out w/ modest wiggling.

For future reference, I looked at requirements to access the AC compressor clutch and remove a shim (excessive clutch gap problem). It looks like the same access as alternator removal, plus remove the lower dust cover to access lower compressor retaining bolts. Once free, the compressor will sag downward to allow access to the clutch plate. Not easy but should be do-able.

thanks for tips.

regards

ZDriver96

Thanks for the write up.

I just did the job.

Things to add.. The only part that you need to unbolt and get out of the way is the power steering pump. You can remove the fan to the radiator but this is not needed.

I used a 1/4 drive snap on Long ratchet TL72 with a deep well 12mm socket. I couldn't get the clearance with a 3/8 drive ratchet. The TL72 gave me the leverage to wrench on the bolts and also it ratchets easy so it doesn't spin the bolt on/off while trying to ratchet in an awkward position. (Not a Snap on rep but giving an example of a tool that will do the job).

Basically once that power steer pump and the power steering reservoir is up and out of the way you can get the alternator out. Make sure you tie the power steering pump up and out of the way. Its a tight squeeze to get the alternator out and you'll probably have to muscle it some. Just remember that you have 3 connections on the side of it so make sure these are all undone before you start yanking.

Also remember you can double up your 14mm wrench with another larger wrench for mechanical leverage on the tensioner so you don't need the specific tool. You'll need a wrench as ratchets won't have the clearance.

TL Dream

Thanks for posting these tips. I followed them for the most part. Pulling the fan and pulling the alt through that opening was tricky, but doable. Overall I found the job to be rather easy, but I have a nice set of sockets and such to pick from which did help to reach the lower bolts. It took me 90 minutes to complete the job and that was with my 6 year old "helping" the entire time.

I picked up a new alternator from Autozone with a 20% off coupon overnight delivery for $149. Lifetime warranty that I hope not to use.

Just to help others understand this failure. "Check charge system" light came on while driving. Checked voltage at idle and it was 12.1V. Engine off I had 12.4v, so I knew it was the alternator. Stopped by autozone and they tested it in the car and found one diode out and the voltage regulator out. Charged the battery overnight and observed the same situation with voltage (I have the optima charger that works well, but probably overpriced like their batteries).

I know people will dog me not getting a nice OEM Denso alternator for $200+, but the car came with a Denso alternator that failed at 54,000 miles. Granted it's 9 years old, but still. I find this data point interesting since knowing when an alternator fails is always a mystery. With low miles and high age, I think it has more to do with environmental abuse than anythings. I'm in Boise where it's HOT in the summer and COLD in the winter.

If you're on the fence about if you can do this, you can. It's easy. Plan for 2 hours.

Cheers!

loulinjai

Thanks curls, my alternator died over the weekend and I followed your instructions to a tee. I'm waiting for the new alternator but it took me 20-25mins for removal, it saved me a lot of time as I knew what tools and sockets I needed.

For those who will be doing it in the future, I noticed this in additional to curls' instructions.
1. I only needed one clip off for the passenger side fan (perhaps I missed something?).
2. I didn't need to touch the PS steering pump or reservoir.
3. Follow curls' suggestion on the order to remove bolts, it helped tremendously.
4. Be careful of the radiator if you remove the passenger fan. I didn't pay close enough attention and damaged the fins when wiggling to get the alternator out.
5. I didn't have enough clearance to get a 10mm socket in to remove the B+ bolt. I used a box end wrench to remove this. curls is right and this was a soft nut, don't use the open end of the wrench. Be careful, it doesn't take a lot of torque to take this nut off.

Lxa374

Any idea how tight the bolts should be when replacing the alternator? Looking for some sort of a ft. Lb. number. I don't want to go all Rambo on the bolts but I don't want them too loose either. This is for a 2007 RDX Tech. Thanks in advance.

91lgndsdn

LOL smh Damn same thing happened to me!!!

thoiboi

That's why this tool was made

gdcwatt

Great How To. Thank you everyone, although I did also watch some youtube videos for same gen-Honda Accords.

I removed the pwr steering pump and reservoir, and the psngr side fan, and had no problems. My car is now in its 13th year, with 230,000 miles, so I had to drill out one of the rusted top fan shroud bolts, and exercised some metal fatigue to break the very rusted small lower metal arm which holds the lower fan connector to the shroud. To relieve the tensioner, I put a 10" double-box end wrench (with an inch of offset) into a 2ft floor jack handle, and had no problem with the tensioner.

I found a pair of long-handled needle-nose pliers helpful to release the lower fan connector, pushing the tab with my fingers, and pulling the top end out with the pliers.

Prior to starting this R&R, with a fully charged battery, and everything shut off, there was an incredible parasitic drain; I watched the battery voltage, on my multi-meter, drop before my eyes, but after the new alternator was installed everything is working perfectly. Using Canadian Tire supplied parts (including a new belt), I saved $500-700Cdn by not using the dealer, and about $300 by not using Canadian Tire's labour. My parts cost was about $220US.

Trevor Pickens

I did every step as mentioned and it took me just over an hour, minus the time to go to the auto store to replace the alternator Thanks for the post.

Tim Hulse

My 2007 TL only has about 55k on it and got this error on the screen today. After using a voltmeter, it does look like I need an alternator replacement. Dealer in Fresno wanted $615 for the Denso remanufactured(I would get 75 back for the core). Napa has Denso remanufactured for about $280 (less 85 core return), so it looks like I know where i'm headed next! Thanks for the detailed how-to on this repair. Should save me some money on that side as well...

Tim

Midnight Mystery

Replaced my alternator on my Accord three times last month, I know, long story, but it two was indeed, a piece of cake!

jimmyreacher

If you have time, go with Rockauto Denso reman. I've had good success with those at a very good price.

Tim Hulse

Thanks for the RA tip, but I needed it quick. Ordered it at about 10pm on Thursday night, it showed up to my local NAPA store around lunch on Friday. Had it installed on Saturday AM. Taking off that bottom clip of that radiator fan was probably the worst part of the job. :-(

To pull the alternator out, just had to keep pulling hard while rocking the whole unit back and forth where the bottom bolt goes through. I needed some comedy relief while I was doing it so I shouted out "PIVOT" a few times. My neighbors probably thought I was nuts....