Hondata Heatshield Gasket Installed!
#1
Hondata Heatshield Gasket Installed!
I just got done with the Hondata gasket install today. The installation was not as difficult as originally thought. Mainly because the TSX uses all metal gaskets, which means no scraping of old gasket necessary. The complete installation should take about 2 hrs. The most difficult part was to remove and reinstall the intake manifold support bracket bolt and nut due to lack of space to place the wrench. If I have to rate the installation difficulty on a scale of 1 to 5 (1 being the easiest such as swaybar and strut bar install), the gasket install would be #2 on the same level of difficulty as a CAI or header install.
Tools needed:
Ratchet wrench
10mm and 12mm sockets
Short socket extension or 12mm deep socket
Long socket extension (very long) for intake manifold bracket nut
Universal joint for use with long extension
12mm box-end wrench
Plier for removing hose clamps
Torque spec:
All nuts and bolts are only 16 lbs, including the IM support bracket.
Steps:
1. Remove bottom splash guard (you need to access the IM support bracket from the bottom).
2. Drain coolant.
3. Remove intake manifold top cover.
4. Remove intake tube and IAT sensor connector.
5. Remove large vacuum hose attached to the front of the intake manifold.
6. Remove throttle body coolant lines. This is the best time to perform the TB coolant bypass mod if you haven't done it already.
7. Remove throttle body DBW connector.
8. Remove MAP sensor connector.
9. Remove wire harness mounting bolt on the front by the MAP sensor(12mm).
10.Remove hose bracket on top right corner of the intake manifold (10mm).
11.Remove intake manifold support bracket mounting nut and bolt from the bottom of the car (12mm). Just leave the bracket dangle.
12.Remove intake manifold mounting nuts and bolts (12mm)
13.Remove intake manifold with TB from injector base. Note: slowly back out first and disconnect vacuum hose from the back of the intake manifold before lifting it out completely.
14.Remove oem intake manifold gasket. You will need to reuse the gasket later.
15.Remove engine mount control solenoid bracket from top left corner of injector base (10mm). Just leave the entire assembly dangle.
16.Remove injector base mounting nuts and bolts (12mm)
17.Note: you do not have to remove anything else on the injector base. However, you can optionally disconnect the fuel line quick-connector from the fuel rail if you want more wriggling room. Make sure to place some rags around the fuel line connector area to catch spill. I only had two drops.
18.Remove injector base assembly from the cylinder head. Actually, just pull it out far enough to remove and install the gasket.
19.Remove oem injector base gasket.
20.Clean injector base and intake port surface.
21.Install Hondata heatshield gasket.
22.Reinstall everything in reverse orders.
23.Refill coolant. Start engine and let it idle. Check for leaks.
24.Done!
Some pics:
Removed top cover and intake tube
Intake manfold with TB assembly
Injector base
Note the motor mount control solenoid assembly dangling on the left of the fuel rail.
Shift injector base to the side and showing intake ports
Note the traces of oil inside and around the intake ports!
Injector base with oil!
The injector base is the same way! This is caused by the PCV system sucking oil vapor from the crankcase and burning it in the combustion camber via the intake manifold. The TSX seems to suck in more oil than my Civic, possibly due to the lack of oil separator. Better clean it up before installing the gasket!
Dirty shit!
Hmm... I might have to install a catch can.
EGR plate
The EGR plate on top of the injector base is the same way because the hose routes the oil vapor to this plate, then down to injector base and intake ports.
EGR plate 2
I think this is the reason why K-series engine use more oil. Not because of burning through the rings.
Gasket thickness
The gasket is pretty thick at 3.5mm.
Gaskets
Completed
I want to see who's the first to notice the subtle addition in the last two pics.
My butt dyno is too old to feel any gain in hp. I'll have to wait for real dyno to see if I've just wasted my money! LOL!!!
Tools needed:
Ratchet wrench
10mm and 12mm sockets
Short socket extension or 12mm deep socket
Long socket extension (very long) for intake manifold bracket nut
Universal joint for use with long extension
12mm box-end wrench
Plier for removing hose clamps
Torque spec:
All nuts and bolts are only 16 lbs, including the IM support bracket.
Steps:
1. Remove bottom splash guard (you need to access the IM support bracket from the bottom).
2. Drain coolant.
3. Remove intake manifold top cover.
4. Remove intake tube and IAT sensor connector.
5. Remove large vacuum hose attached to the front of the intake manifold.
6. Remove throttle body coolant lines. This is the best time to perform the TB coolant bypass mod if you haven't done it already.
7. Remove throttle body DBW connector.
8. Remove MAP sensor connector.
9. Remove wire harness mounting bolt on the front by the MAP sensor(12mm).
10.Remove hose bracket on top right corner of the intake manifold (10mm).
11.Remove intake manifold support bracket mounting nut and bolt from the bottom of the car (12mm). Just leave the bracket dangle.
12.Remove intake manifold mounting nuts and bolts (12mm)
13.Remove intake manifold with TB from injector base. Note: slowly back out first and disconnect vacuum hose from the back of the intake manifold before lifting it out completely.
14.Remove oem intake manifold gasket. You will need to reuse the gasket later.
15.Remove engine mount control solenoid bracket from top left corner of injector base (10mm). Just leave the entire assembly dangle.
16.Remove injector base mounting nuts and bolts (12mm)
17.Note: you do not have to remove anything else on the injector base. However, you can optionally disconnect the fuel line quick-connector from the fuel rail if you want more wriggling room. Make sure to place some rags around the fuel line connector area to catch spill. I only had two drops.
18.Remove injector base assembly from the cylinder head. Actually, just pull it out far enough to remove and install the gasket.
19.Remove oem injector base gasket.
20.Clean injector base and intake port surface.
21.Install Hondata heatshield gasket.
22.Reinstall everything in reverse orders.
23.Refill coolant. Start engine and let it idle. Check for leaks.
24.Done!
Some pics:
Removed top cover and intake tube
Intake manfold with TB assembly
Injector base
Note the motor mount control solenoid assembly dangling on the left of the fuel rail.
Shift injector base to the side and showing intake ports
Note the traces of oil inside and around the intake ports!
Injector base with oil!
The injector base is the same way! This is caused by the PCV system sucking oil vapor from the crankcase and burning it in the combustion camber via the intake manifold. The TSX seems to suck in more oil than my Civic, possibly due to the lack of oil separator. Better clean it up before installing the gasket!
Dirty shit!
Hmm... I might have to install a catch can.
EGR plate
The EGR plate on top of the injector base is the same way because the hose routes the oil vapor to this plate, then down to injector base and intake ports.
EGR plate 2
I think this is the reason why K-series engine use more oil. Not because of burning through the rings.
Gasket thickness
The gasket is pretty thick at 3.5mm.
Gaskets
Completed
I want to see who's the first to notice the subtle addition in the last two pics.
My butt dyno is too old to feel any gain in hp. I'll have to wait for real dyno to see if I've just wasted my money! LOL!!!
#2
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: ALBUQUERQUE, NEW MEXICO
Age: 49
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It looked great! I think you should buy a new red valve cover and spark, it will be looking awesome. I will look forward to see your dyno, bro.
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#8
Originally posted by accsuperstar
yay for the writeup champion! looks like we will be referring do this on our "shop" day in june
did you coat your intake manifold or something?
yay for the writeup champion! looks like we will be referring do this on our "shop" day in june
did you coat your intake manifold or something?
#10
Senior Moderator
Originally posted by JTso
You got it! It's ceramic coated in titanium finish with clear coat to match the Comptech strut bar. I hope it works. Otherwise, it will be an expensive fixture like the Comptech strut bar! LOL!
You got it! It's ceramic coated in titanium finish with clear coat to match the Comptech strut bar. I hope it works. Otherwise, it will be an expensive fixture like the Comptech strut bar! LOL!
#13
Originally posted by fdl
What do you mean you hope it works? What advantage will the ceramic coating provide (other than looks)?
What do you mean you hope it works? What advantage will the ceramic coating provide (other than looks)?
#14
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
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How much was it to have it done
#16
Über Geek
Join Date: Jul 2003
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Nice work. Even better write-up.
I'm still WAY too scared to take apart my engine like that.
Strut bar looks great. Please spill the beans on cost and how you got the powder coating done.
I'm still WAY too scared to take apart my engine like that.
Strut bar looks great. Please spill the beans on cost and how you got the powder coating done.
#17
Photography Nerd
It's not powder coating it's ceramic coating. He has a thread on it here: http://www.acura-tsx.com/forums/show...&threadid=7389
#27
a little offtopic, but how difficult was it to take off the intake manifold? And did you re-use the intake manifold gasket? or got another one?
And if its not too much trouble.. could you possibly write out the steps for detatching the intake manifold? and any precautions I should take before taking it off?
I dont think there should be too many steps.
Thanks a bunch tho!
- Najeeb
And if its not too much trouble.. could you possibly write out the steps for detatching the intake manifold? and any precautions I should take before taking it off?
I dont think there should be too many steps.
Thanks a bunch tho!
- Najeeb
#30
Instructor
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Southern Tier,NY
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Originally posted by NocturnalTSX
Okay sounds simple enough..
now here is where my noobiness to engines comes in hehe.. what coolant am I draining? and what do i refill it with?
Okay sounds simple enough..
now here is where my noobiness to engines comes in hehe.. what coolant am I draining? and what do i refill it with?
#31
Yes, I agree with TSX007. The steps are very simple but it requires some general knowledge working around cars and safety precaution, especially when working under the car and the pressurized fuel line. It might be a good idea to seek assistance for this mod.
#35
2018 TLX A-SPEC
NocturnalTSX
All you have to do is take your time and follow the steps. It really is a pretty simple install. Don't let the fluids throw you off. Plan for a little spilled coolant and don't rush thr job. The fuel line is a sinch to disconnect and reconnect and may drip a little fuel when you unhook it. It will evaporate quickly so there is no worry. PM me if you run into any problems I'd be happy to help with any questions you have.
All you have to do is take your time and follow the steps. It really is a pretty simple install. Don't let the fluids throw you off. Plan for a little spilled coolant and don't rush thr job. The fuel line is a sinch to disconnect and reconnect and may drip a little fuel when you unhook it. It will evaporate quickly so there is no worry. PM me if you run into any problems I'd be happy to help with any questions you have.
#36
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Sep 2003
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Hey I MOD, I wonder if you are satisfield with performance on Hondata heatsheild gasket and DC sports and Injen intake on your TSX? I am sure that your car will go faster with more horsepower with upgrade engine and your SSR GT1 wheels with lightweight. I love your TSX, I am considering about purchase 18" SSR GT1 on SSM someday, they looked so awesome, bro. I like 18" on TSX than 19. 19" look nice but kind of a little big on TSX. Thanks bro.
#37
2018 TLX A-SPEC
With all thee mods on the engine it revs up faster and pulls harder at VTEC for sure. Unfortunately the DC header is coming off tonight. Due to crap manufacturing the collector devloped a split in it and I have onlt had it on the car for a week. I'll most likely sell the header and keep the stock one for now. Maybe i got a bum header but it's pretty disappointing to see that after only a week.
As far as the wheels go I'd recommend them they are great and the TSX needs 18", the stock wheels just look to small on it.
As far as the wheels go I'd recommend them they are great and the TSX needs 18", the stock wheels just look to small on it.
#38
I-MOD: thanks for the support man! I'll let u know if I have any problems. I'd just rather learn things on my own than pay someone to do it for me, thats why I asked.
Thanks again
Thanks again
#39
E46 M3 New Toy *^^*
Join Date: Jan 2004
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Originally posted by I-MOD
With all thee mods on the engine it revs up faster and pulls harder at VTEC for sure. Unfortunately the DC header is coming off tonight. Due to crap manufacturing the collector devloped a split in it and I have onlt had it on the car for a week. I'll most likely sell the header and keep the stock one for now. Maybe i got a bum header but it's pretty disappointing to see that after only a week.
As far as the wheels go I'd recommend them they are great and the TSX needs 18", the stock wheels just look to small on it.
With all thee mods on the engine it revs up faster and pulls harder at VTEC for sure. Unfortunately the DC header is coming off tonight. Due to crap manufacturing the collector devloped a split in it and I have onlt had it on the car for a week. I'll most likely sell the header and keep the stock one for now. Maybe i got a bum header but it's pretty disappointing to see that after only a week.
As far as the wheels go I'd recommend them they are great and the TSX needs 18", the stock wheels just look to small on it.
#40
2018 TLX A-SPEC
I hear ya man, I was hesitant to get it but figured they were better these days then they were when I had my Integra.
On the IMG, just hit me up with your email address on PM and we'll set it up. I'm pretty booked up with cars the next few weeks but could get you in sooner or later to get it on there
D.
On the IMG, just hit me up with your email address on PM and we'll set it up. I'm pretty booked up with cars the next few weeks but could get you in sooner or later to get it on there
D.