lilscoots

I've got a '96 TL 2.5 with the "captive rotor" that comes standard with our otherwise fine automobile.

My cv axle started clicking this spring. I thought as long as I am pulling everything apart... I may as well switch to rotor over hub (ROH).

I had somewhat of a budget, so I wanted to use as much stock stuff as I could. I also didn't want to have to buy all new wheels. Especially since I had just put new tires on last fall.

This thread will follow my conversion, since I haven't been able to find a clear version of what exactly works....Wish me luck!

Adam

memphisraines26

hope this link helps... it would keep you with 4x114

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2027047

lilscoots

That's pretty much what I followed. The only problem with that one is that the accords and civics use smaller wheel bearings, and rotors than our TL's. The 98-99 3.0L CL's use the same bearings as our TL's and the same size rotors while keeping the 4x114 hub. I have 3.0L CL hubs being shipped to me currently. From what I could glean, the outer spline count and threading is the same from our TL's and the 3.0 CL, I'm hoping the diameters match as well. We'll see as soon as they get here.
Just waiting on parts now, and thanks again Memphis.

lilscoots

So I got my hubs and bearings pressed out/in at a local shop today and test fit everything on the car.......and it all fits.

I took a bunch of pics of the whole process so a post with the exact parts used and some pics will come when i get a bit more time.

lilscoots

So here's a list of the parts I used

Necessary Parts
'98-99 CL 3.0L hubs --> probably Dealer as no Junk yard has them 2x $100-150 new $50 used
part# 44600-SS8-A00
'98-99 CL 3.0L rotors --> 4-lug 11" rotors 2x $25 new
(online dealers have better prices than local)
Total for non-stock parts = $250-$350



Parts you might find out you need after you start taking things apart

Wheel bearings --> Stock Mine were stuck $60 new
Calipers --> Stock
Pads --> Stock
Lower Ball Joint --> may as well get these pressed in the same time you have your hubs/bearings done
Acura does not list lower ball joint seperately from knuckle, but you can find it online for $30
Ball Joint boots (upper, lower, control arm) (Cheaper at honda dealership or online)
I chose to replace just the boots as my ball joints were good. I tore the boots removing the knuckle.
Upper boot - part#53546-SH0-A01 $5
Lower boot - part#51225-SL5-003 $12
Control arm boot - part#53546-SH0-A01 (same as upper)


I have pics and can write up a how to if anyone's interested.
Adam

main70072

Please do write up a DIY whenever you have the time as some of us may find it useful in the future. I myself might do this next time I change my front rotors.

lilscoots

Found the pics
http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/el...2_5%20TL%20ROH

lilscoots

As far as a write up goes....
This is from memory of something I did 3 years ago and I assume you know some "basic" things like joint separation, brake pad/rotor replacement, wheel replacement, torque specs etc. If I missed anything let me know.

You need to get the parts mentioned above...when you have them and have found someone who will press out the old bearing/hub/rotor and press in the new bearing/hub and you have the necessary tools (socket set, ball joint separators, breaker bars, etc) you're good to go.

You'll need to get the steering knuckle out so you can get the bearings pressed.

Start by removing the wheels and jacking the car up. chock the back wheels and/or set the parking brake and get some jack stands under the car.

1. Remove the axle nut and separate the spindle from the bearing so the axle can slide in/out of the bearing. I used a vinyl/rubber sledge.

2. Remove the caliper and caliper bracket - two bolts on the backside of the of the steering knuckle - 17mm I believe. You can keep the caliper on the bracket if you wish. Hang the caliper from the springs with wire/zip-tie.

3. Remove the castle nuts from the lower and upper ball joints as well as the tie rod end.

4. Separate the Upper and lower ball joints as well as the tie rod end. There are a few ways to do this, I used a pickel fork and tore the boots.

5. Remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. If I remember right, this took some effort to get the lower ball joint out of the lower control arm, a friend might be helpful?

6. Take your steering knuckles and new bearings/hubs and get the pressing done. If your lower ball joint is bad, get this pressed at the same time.

7. prepare to put the steering knuckle back in by replacing any boots that you tore, lubing the joints, new cotter pins etc.

8. Put the knuckle back in. Slide the axle into the new bearing at this time if you'd like.

9. Tighten the castle nuts back onto the ball joints and tie rod end and put new cotter pins in.

10. Slide the axle into the new bearing if you didn't already and tighten the axle nut and dent the ring into the notch.

11. Install the new rotor, new pads and slide the Caliper back on and bolt the bracket back onto the knuckle. You'll have to push the caliper cylinder in with a C-clamp or special tool to get new pads to fit around a new rotor.

12. put the wheel back on, get your car off the jackstands, tighten the lugs and be relieved the next time you have to replace the rotor that you don't have to tear the whole thing apart....

main70072

I did the same exact except with 5 lug hubs. Nice straight forward write up!

lilscoots

This allowed me to keep my current rims/tires by staying with the 4 lug hubs. and thanks

bigwerm187

This is awsome... Am have to do this for mine... i hope i can find drilled and slotted rotors for a 3.0 cl lol

bean02127

So I’m having serious issues with a bolt rounded on my hub can’t move it. So I have a new bearing I have a 1998 Acura 2.5 tl so I just want to get this rite so what hub from what vehicles fit cuz I’m not paying 250 for the hub from the dealer I refuse it’s ridiculous and dumb so I came across this thread and are you saying all I need is the Acura cl 98 99 spindle? And it will fit my axle line up correct and can still use my original rotors?

bean02127

So idk what this guy did so many years ago but he says he did this to a 2.5 tl anyone know how this works?