How to replace the D4 light
07-05-2007, 09:15 PM
#44
Advanced
I did this today...Getting the right side of the vents off is the hugest PITA ever!! Other than that, not too bad. More work than it's worth IMO. Hopefully this bulb lasts about ~50,000+ miles, otherwise I'll never change it again.
07-05-2007, 11:53 PM
#45
大日本帝国
^ I left the light off. As I had said in an earlier post in this thread, it's one less light to bug me. I know if the car is in drive because it's moving. 
~Cheers~
~Cheers~
07-10-2007, 12:10 AM
#47
95 Acura TL
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Tucson, AZ
Age: 36
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So I'm definitly going to change the light and I will be definitly just put the 1st gear bulb in the D4 spot instead of buying a new one. My question is if you can disconnect the ABS light and Seat Belt reminder light. Both are anoying and I want them off. For all of you that have been behind the gauges, can I remove these lights? If i can it will definitly motivate me to do this project. Please let me know. I will be very excited to get rid of those anoying lights. Thanks - Nick
07-13-2007, 04:38 PM
#48
95 Acura TL
Join Date: May 2007
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My D4 light Change
Here are some pictures of the D4 light bulb change out. I didn't even buy a new light I just switched out the 1st gear Light. There was really only 4-6 screws that you need to take out and just a few peices of trim.
Shot with DSC-W7 at 2007-07-13
This is everything you will take out plus the plastic covering the steering wheel column.
Shot with DSC-W7 at 2007-07-13
This is everything out.
Shot with DSC-W7 at 2007-07-13
See those Black vents? Those are not supposed to stay in there when you take the whole peice out. I later found out that they stayed in and just cracked off the trim I pulled out. The plastic was a little brittle i guess. So I had to take out those black vents and super glue them onto the peice of trim and then stick the whole peice back in. It still isn't quite a tight fit as before on the side of the vents but oh well. I would be very careful when pulling out the right side of this trim as to not break the vents.
Shot with DSC-W7 at 2007-07-13
Shot with DSC-W7 at 2007-07-13
As you can see I removed the 1st gear light and put it in the D4 spot. I also removed the anoying seat belt reminder light ( i know i should be wearing a seatbelt but i'm young and don't know any better), you can see it missing along the top 5 lights, and I also removed the ABS light because it's always on and the ABS was fine. Now everything is perfect.
It took me a total of 30 minutes taking everything out and putting it back and a total of 3 hours fixing the busted AC vents. I would be extremely carefull taking out the trim peice with the vents. Other then that it was fast, fun, and very easy. -Nick
Shot with DSC-W7 at 2007-07-13
This is everything you will take out plus the plastic covering the steering wheel column.
Shot with DSC-W7 at 2007-07-13
This is everything out.
Shot with DSC-W7 at 2007-07-13
See those Black vents? Those are not supposed to stay in there when you take the whole peice out. I later found out that they stayed in and just cracked off the trim I pulled out. The plastic was a little brittle i guess. So I had to take out those black vents and super glue them onto the peice of trim and then stick the whole peice back in. It still isn't quite a tight fit as before on the side of the vents but oh well. I would be very careful when pulling out the right side of this trim as to not break the vents.
Shot with DSC-W7 at 2007-07-13
Shot with DSC-W7 at 2007-07-13
As you can see I removed the 1st gear light and put it in the D4 spot. I also removed the anoying seat belt reminder light ( i know i should be wearing a seatbelt but i'm young and don't know any better), you can see it missing along the top 5 lights, and I also removed the ABS light because it's always on and the ABS was fine. Now everything is perfect.
It took me a total of 30 minutes taking everything out and putting it back and a total of 3 hours fixing the busted AC vents. I would be extremely carefull taking out the trim peice with the vents. Other then that it was fast, fun, and very easy. -Nick
07-16-2007, 12:35 AM
#51
95 Acura TL
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Tucson, AZ
Age: 36
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Yeah I know I need to fix that steering wheel. I was gonna call the fabricon company. There was a post about a company called fabricon on here somewhere that fixes stuff like that. Any way to fix it besides calling the pro's?
01-26-2010, 08:55 PM
#58
98 Blue 2.5 TL 200,050 mi
DIY Dash Display/Speedometer Removal
Mandy, it's extremely easy.
From memory:
Hope that helps.
From memory:
- Two screws pointing up in the dash in front of the clear plastic (speedometer, gas, etc.).
- Lower steering wheel all the way.
- Remove screws behind rubber flaps on right and left of steering wheel.
- *Gently* pull section out.
- Remove two more screws holding the actual display section.
- Unplug rear connections
Hope that helps.
01-27-2010, 09:12 AM
#59
98 3.2 Flamenco Black
Great thanks. Just printed the manual and it states exactly as you did. Probably best to tape all around so you do not scratch the molding. Now that I have read it carefully, pics are not really necessary.
However I will take pics to show the actual rear of the display.
Thanks again.
However I will take pics to show the actual rear of the display.
Thanks again.
03-07-2010, 09:45 AM
#60
Cruisin'
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Well, for everyone out there who wants to replace that pesky little D4 light, heres how to do it. I did it today, and because no one has wrote up a nice detailed thing of instructions, I figure that I will take it upon myself. First one I have ever done.
What you will need:
Short philips head screwdriver
Long philips head screwdriver
Small flathead screwdriver (or similar)
D4 light
This only took me about 30 minutes to do from start to finish, it really isnt that bad if you have some background on what you are doing, and even just a small amount of skill with a screwdriver.
Also, the screws are all different, so try and keep them seperated so that they all go back into the right spot and you don't run into any problems.
Alright, first you need the light from your dealership, its part number 37103-ST7-003 and should cost you less then $5.
Now, you need to pull off the trim around the instrument cluster, its the piece with the 3 vents and the clock, and also the black trim around the instrument cluster closest to the wheel. Start by taking out the two screws above the instrument cluster, you'll need a short screwdriver so that it can fit in there, tilt the steering wheel down for the most room that you can get.
There is a spot, which I believe should hold two more screws, but my particular car did not have any there, maybe from a dealership not putting them back in or something, but they are behind the flap that is above the steering wheel.
Now you have to start pulling the trim out. When I did it I grabbed the black part and pulled out towards me, the top and bottom at the same time, and this got the left half of it out pretty easily.
For part of it, you may have to use a small flat object to wedge under the trim and peel it out. I used a small flat head screwdriver, with a smooth end, not ridged, because it would probably scratch things up. Be careful doing this, you don't want to bend anything too much and end up breaking something, if you need help, ask for it, its something anyone can help with.
Next, you have to unhook the wiring going to the clock and the hazard light switch so that you can pull everything out of the car. I believe one of them pulled right off, and the other just had a little snap that I unsnapped with the screwdriver.
Now, you should be able to take the entire piece out of your car and take a nice picture of it like so:
At this point if you really want, you can dust out the vents for the heat and everything, mine were a bit dirty but nothing that bothers me, and I dont notice it while driving.
Now there are some more screws to take out so that you can access the back of the instrument cluster. There are two on the side, and two on the top, though one was missing in my car (I see a bad trend here...
). The first two are on the top, the black tabs are where they are, the two other screw holes are for the first two that you removed. I almost dropped the screw, and I can imagine it would have been easy to get if I did (just remove the kick guard), just a pain and more time spent, that could have been avoided.
The next two are on the sides, they are above a small stud that makes sure the cluster is lined up right and everything will fit back together. One on the left, one on the right.
At this point, you should be able to remove the instrument cluster, pull it straight out towards you, and then spin it downwards. You don't have to disconnect the wiring or completely remove it to put the light in, you can just sort of rotate it down and pull the left side out a bit to get access to the light.
The staggered row of lights near the center is what you are aiming for. The D4 light is the fourth one up from the bottom (1,2,D3,D4,N,R,P respectively). The light twists about a quarter turn, then pulls straight out. Just drop yours in and twist it so it is lined up like the other ones, you can see where the wiring of the light has to touch the back of the cluster.
Now that its in, put up your parking brake, put your key in, put it in the II position. This way the gear selector lights light up. Step on the brake and shift down to D4, your light should light up, if it does, your done, and can reassemble everything in reverse order. If it doesn't work, either I wrote this wrong, or you did it wrong, or there is another problem.
What you will need:
Short philips head screwdriver
Long philips head screwdriver
Small flathead screwdriver (or similar)
D4 light
This only took me about 30 minutes to do from start to finish, it really isnt that bad if you have some background on what you are doing, and even just a small amount of skill with a screwdriver.
Also, the screws are all different, so try and keep them seperated so that they all go back into the right spot and you don't run into any problems.
Alright, first you need the light from your dealership, its part number 37103-ST7-003 and should cost you less then $5.
Now, you need to pull off the trim around the instrument cluster, its the piece with the 3 vents and the clock, and also the black trim around the instrument cluster closest to the wheel. Start by taking out the two screws above the instrument cluster, you'll need a short screwdriver so that it can fit in there, tilt the steering wheel down for the most room that you can get.
There is a spot, which I believe should hold two more screws, but my particular car did not have any there, maybe from a dealership not putting them back in or something, but they are behind the flap that is above the steering wheel.
Now you have to start pulling the trim out. When I did it I grabbed the black part and pulled out towards me, the top and bottom at the same time, and this got the left half of it out pretty easily.
For part of it, you may have to use a small flat object to wedge under the trim and peel it out. I used a small flat head screwdriver, with a smooth end, not ridged, because it would probably scratch things up. Be careful doing this, you don't want to bend anything too much and end up breaking something, if you need help, ask for it, its something anyone can help with.
Next, you have to unhook the wiring going to the clock and the hazard light switch so that you can pull everything out of the car. I believe one of them pulled right off, and the other just had a little snap that I unsnapped with the screwdriver.
Now, you should be able to take the entire piece out of your car and take a nice picture of it like so:
At this point if you really want, you can dust out the vents for the heat and everything, mine were a bit dirty but nothing that bothers me, and I dont notice it while driving.
Now there are some more screws to take out so that you can access the back of the instrument cluster. There are two on the side, and two on the top, though one was missing in my car (I see a bad trend here...
). The first two are on the top, the black tabs are where they are, the two other screw holes are for the first two that you removed. I almost dropped the screw, and I can imagine it would have been easy to get if I did (just remove the kick guard), just a pain and more time spent, that could have been avoided.The next two are on the sides, they are above a small stud that makes sure the cluster is lined up right and everything will fit back together. One on the left, one on the right.
At this point, you should be able to remove the instrument cluster, pull it straight out towards you, and then spin it downwards. You don't have to disconnect the wiring or completely remove it to put the light in, you can just sort of rotate it down and pull the left side out a bit to get access to the light.
The staggered row of lights near the center is what you are aiming for. The D4 light is the fourth one up from the bottom (1,2,D3,D4,N,R,P respectively). The light twists about a quarter turn, then pulls straight out. Just drop yours in and twist it so it is lined up like the other ones, you can see where the wiring of the light has to touch the back of the cluster.
Now that its in, put up your parking brake, put your key in, put it in the II position. This way the gear selector lights light up. Step on the brake and shift down to D4, your light should light up, if it does, your done, and can reassemble everything in reverse order. If it doesn't work, either I wrote this wrong, or you did it wrong, or there is another problem.
03-07-2010, 07:55 PM
#62
Cruisin'
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01-30-2011, 10:41 AM
#63
2nd Gear
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thanks a bunch Unsane Pyro!! i started taking off the panel yesterday but got scared i would rip wires from clock and vents. Today i decided I would find some instructions and found yours! Even though your pictures are gone I know exactly what you talking about since I started and gave up... Today i'll finish 
thanks to you!
thanks to you!
02-02-2015, 10:40 AM
#68
Instructor
11-21-2016, 04:32 PM
#69
Instructor
I had to remove my instrument cluster since the odometer and trip odometer quit working.
I decided to swap the #2 gear light with the D4. I never shift down into either low range so that should be no problem.
I may be getting hosed, but I'm paying $250 for a new speedometer assembly, with circuit board and all the trimmings. The speed shop said the gears in it are toast.
I seldom put $ into this car, so I can live with the $250.
I decided to swap the #2 gear light with the D4. I never shift down into either low range so that should be no problem.
I may be getting hosed, but I'm paying $250 for a new speedometer assembly, with circuit board and all the trimmings. The speed shop said the gears in it are toast.
I seldom put $ into this car, so I can live with the $250.
11-23-2016, 02:14 PM
#70
Instructor
Dammit, I thought I'd swapped out the #2 light but I had it upside down and swapped out the R light.
Now, I wish I'd left it alone. I do have everything back together, and don't feel like taking it apart again right now.
Now, I wish I'd left it alone. I do have everything back together, and don't feel like taking it apart again right now.
11-26-2016, 11:32 AM
#72
Senior Moderator
Sounds like an excessive spend for a not so useful part
11-27-2016, 02:16 PM
#73
Instructor
Yeah, the only thing I worry about is the damn inspection. I don't know what would happen if the mileage doesn't change.
I don't know if they can read it from the computer, but I doubt it. Back to the shop tomorrow.
I never spend any $ for repairs on this car, so the price doesn't really bother me, I just want it fixed.
Just took the cluster out, again.
Some of the connectors are a bitch.
I don't know if they can read it from the computer, but I doubt it. Back to the shop tomorrow.
I never spend any $ for repairs on this car, so the price doesn't really bother me, I just want it fixed.
Just took the cluster out, again.
Some of the connectors are a bitch.
11-28-2016, 03:50 PM
#74
Instructor
False alarm thank goodness. Somehow, I must not have pushed in the reset button properly. Both odos are working.
Now, I have to get up nerve to change the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump.
Now, I have to get up nerve to change the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump.
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