Cornflake

I have to disagree with the heater control issues you have..... I've seen MANY automatic units, and of all the ones I've used, this one is by far one of the easiest and simplest ones. Works quite well too (air con is a bit weak, but that's a usual Honda problem anyways).

Mandy

Update on mine:

2 Front Door handles replaced.
Starter acting up.
2 O2 Sensors replaced.
Charcoal Canister replaced (I doubt if they really did this, Acura Warranty)
Doors squeek like crazy.
Leaks inside, maybe from previous accident, replaced Windshield.

Ken1997TL

Its the easiest climate control system to figure out. Try a Mercedes with 60 buttons, no knobs or dials.

T-dotTL

as for mine :
runs beautifully ..

boys : maintenance mainenance maintenance ..

ohh ya my trunk leaks .. time for a new rubber

veo

Anyone have a problem with locking the drivers door. All doors lock except for that.

LeathaFace

new to tha site..must say im lovin it so far ... but i am glad to see im not tha only 1 wit these problems..lol
mine r
1. slow a$$ windows
2. loud buzzing sound on passenger side (only when doors lock)
3. d4 light out (like every1 else)
4. wind noise @ about 60 mph
5. weird..> water in taillights
so i figure i'll do a search in here b-cuz u guys seem helpful maybe i can fix some of these minor probz..

UnsanePyro

1. Fixable
2. Fixable
3. Fixable
4. Maybe fixable?
5. Fixable

Your in luck.

LeathaFace

thnax 4 tha info pyro (hey that rhymed ) now if i can be a lil greedy and ask 4 help on tha searches of finding tha solutions..i'd be 4eva greatful

phirenze

'96 2.5 Tl- bought in 2001 with 110k miles

1. D4 Light out since i took owndership
2. Starter just died.
3. Slow windows down/up
4. Pass. a/c vent deflector unit fell off
5. Had to replace audio head unit b/c of CD skipping
6. Chrome plastic peeling off of both inside door handles
7. ABS light coming on and ABS inactivated. (had to fix twice)
8. Occasional CEL

car is still pretty damn reliable. only once has it not started when needed (blown starter). have around 140k miles on it. very happy

Wish I could get the power windows fixed thou...

LeathaFace

i recently found where it is to fix tha window problem if im remember its on pg 3 (of the entire forum) i think tha title was quiker windows.. iworked for 2 of my windows until i droped tha straw from tha wd-40 inside tha door ..whoops lol

Art.TL

NewB on the site.
98 3.2 TL 200K - Great car! common problems:
D4 light out
DRL Running Light Relay. Have replaced it twice in last 2 years. Located on right side of glove compartment. Unit costs $130CAD. Circuit board in relay has burn marks on the board. Has anyone out there repaired one?

Art.

Infinite_Delf

slow/scratch tint windows
both front ones rattles at half way
loud noise when locking passenger door (cost 300 to fix) so "F" it
windows not sealed tight
D4 light burnt out
check engine light & ABS light stays on
H4 always burning out with aftermarket bulbs, connecters also melted (had to change connecters & got H.I.D coversion kit) Its worth the investment
Loud ass fan stays on for like 20min - 1hr after engine is off causing my batt. to die out alot (got Optima yellow top) fixed that problem
eat gas & car only take premium
struts for front hood (makes the hood stay up) went out
no acceleration
suspension is all messed up (metal clanking noise on every little bump)
at stoplights cars idle jumps up & down alot
alot of moisture in headlights, also cant adjust them vertically (they're pointing downward)
trunk rattles and leaks alil
shifts hard
I made my signal lights stay on when my lights are on, but 1 of them kinda blinks really fast (its actually on so it just dims really fast)
Does anyone know how to fix it???

DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN GET STRUTS FOR THE HOOD (the thing that holds the hood up) NEW or USED

Does anyone know about the voltage stabilizers, if it works? Or about them mod chips?

1st Generation hardly has any aftermarket parts, mostly only dealership parts only
Dealer says before 1999 Acura was only made in Japan & imported, thats why parts are like that
but wont you think Japan would make aftermarket parts for their own cars, they do for all the other
thats some weird sh*t
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

'97 3.2TL midnite blue (got car at 30K in 2000, now its 135K in 2005)
H.I.D 8300K
clear corners/signal
wood shift knob
Pioneer 7" in-dash LCD (AVX-7000CD) I think 1st in-dash for Pioneer to come out
Pioneer in-dash DVD player (SDV-P7) 1st in-dash DVD for any brand
Pioneer master unit under seat (AVM-P7000R)
PS2
2 - 10" Power DVC Rockford Fosgate in a custom all plexi-glass box
Orion HCCA 250 amp & Orion Extreme 200
Audio Control 3X
Pioneer component speakers
interior lights are brite white instead of the dim yellow
Pheniox Gold (fuse & ground block, cap., and all wiring)

LeathaFace

wish i can be some help but im still waitin on tha 1 thing U fixed that damn loud buzz on tha passenger door lock. and instead of tha headlights mine (moisture) is in tha tailights..but theres a thread name taillight gaskets i think that explains tha solution to that so im workin on that now but goodluck mayne

Infinite_Delf

That loud buzz, I aint never fix it, I meant fuck it cuz it cost $300 to fix. Let me know how that taillight comes out.

youngTL

That isn't a problem if it's what I think it is. When you lock the doors from the inside with the driver's door open, the driver's door purposely won't lock, so that you don't lock your keys in. My brother's 2001 Acura 1.7 EL does that too. You have to put the key in the door lock and lock it that way, or else lock it from the inside while holding the outside door handle open.

LeathaFace

oo lol same damn thing i said about tha lock guy wanted me ta pay em 500 somethin for a whole new power lock fuuuuck that i'd rather juz hear it...anyway when ppl hear it i juz say " PROTECTED BY VIPER STAND BACK" i rather have them lookin at me crazy rather then my baby lol... btw anuther guy told me u can take tha door panel off and use wd-40 on tha motor cuz its prolly juz dusted or rusted up dont sound like i wanna try it but u can ask around to c if any1 has heard that b4

Cornflake

Guys, EASIEST and cheapest way to fix the buzzing noise:
1. Go buy aftermarket door lock solenoid from a stereo shop (get a GOOD quality one!)
2. Disconnect wires from the OEM door lock solenoid (they run to the back of the door where the locking mechanism is). Cut them and splice them into the NEW solenoid.
3. Mount the new solenoid and screw it to the door (these instructions are included with the solenoid).

You must have SOME mech and electrical knowledge to do this repair, but you don't have to be an expert. Worst case, take it to the stereo shop and ask them to do it, should charge no more than $75 including the solenoid. Hope that helps!

LeathaFace

sounds good i think ill try tha 2nd choice...taking it to tha stereo shop.. i want some1 else to be tha blame if they mess up ya kno...cuz if i do it and mess up i cant kick myu own ass but i can kick his lol...thanx for tha info

jmuchiri

Just fixed mine.simple job,buy a laser head cleaner and that will do it.

LeathaFace

laser head clnr will fix tha buzz sound on tha lock ??

UnsanePyro

Haha, no, it helps with the CD player issues. Look at the title of his post. So far the only way I know to fix the door luck buzz when it locks is to get a new actuator, I got one used of from someone parting outa TL and it fixed my problems

dexter96tl

1996 3.2 149,000 still running strong

Climate controll either very hot or very cold no in between

driver side headlight always blows every 5-6 mmonths

19 mpg

slow scratched front windows

nick96acuratl

Man i have the worst problems..

1. slow windos
2. Valve cover leak (no time to fix.. easy to do too)
3. radio didnt play cds ( bought a pioneer)
4. Rear struts need to be replaced
5. extension shaft(w/e u call it) runs from the oil pan to the transaxle( i think its a tranaxle) well one of the seals is leak mad oil..
6. Exhaust leak.. after the manifold.. not sure where exactly
7. My steering wheel is vibrating when idle( usualy when i stop at a light but when i put it in neutral it goes away or park.....ANYONE knows what causes that..
8. valves need to be adjusted
9. Water in the trunk
10. AC doesnt work... bearing and cluth went at the same time... since i bought the car i never got the chance to use it.
11. seats all warned out and steering wheel as well.
12. ABS didnt work because someone took the fuse out... the pump is noisy... and i dont have an ABS light on my dash.. it never comes on. so i took the fuse out and no ABS No.. dont really need it.

i think thats it for now... im hopping to fix everything sometime next week or sometime this month with my dad.. the previous owner was a laddy. NEVER BYE A CAR FROM WOMEN!! i learned my lesson.. fucking smoker took me 2 days too clean the car when i bought it... the roof was black man.

bondeagle

1998 3.2 TL
Slow squeaking Windows scratching surface
Bad wind noice above 100km/hr
15$ / 100 km gas milege

alainf97

96 2.5TL 190 km

D4 light burned out
same windows problems as others
car "shaking" sometimes at around 2500 RPM
A/C not functionning
changed the battery once
many brakes jobs
24 mpg
alloy wheels: finished

bondeagle

Has anyone tryed successfully to fix the window problems? Everyone has the problem, but noone seams to be posting any fixes for it.

youngTL

If you lube it up it helps, but it's only a temporary fix. The fix for my passenger side window (slowwwwwwwwwwwwww, much worse than all the rest) is a new window regulator.

bondeagle

how much does the new window regulator cost? and does it help the squeeking and scraping? or just the speed?

T-dotTL

Kinda of a weird problem ...?.. but it really is my only one ..
When i punch my car ,, as soon as she climbs to about 3000RPM .. my emergency brake light flashes on for about 30 - 60 seconds ,... anybody else have this problem ??

nick96acuratl

wow never heard of that.. brake light hmm no clue

T-dotTL

and i know cars well enough that to know it has nothing to do with the brakes .. i dont know why it does it , i almost want to disconnect my emergency brake light ,,

Cornflake

Check the brake fluid level and if it's high enough, then try replacing the reservoir cap/sensor with a NEW one. I contstantly have problems with the brake light going on, take the cap off and put it back, it is fine. The float gets stuck.

T-dotTL

buddy your always in action .. as for replacing the cap/sensor ,, it would have an effect on my "EMERGENCY BRAKE LIGHT ",,, i understand if it was the ABS light but i dont know about the EBL

Cornflake

The EBL ALSO comes on when the brake fluid is low. Uses the same light to indicate a problem with the brake system of any kind that it can detect (aside from the ABS light which will indicate a problem with the ABS system SPECIFICALLY). This is why a stuck floater can cause the light to come on. This IS the case with my car as I have proven several times by removing the cap moving the float and replacing the cap when the light comes on, and it goes out every time I do that. (The fluid level is always actually fine in the reservoir when I do this by the way).

shag

1996 2.5 tl --I need help. Under acceleration the car shakes violently. Any ideas?

bpjadhav

Help!!! I recently noticed that the engine was a bit noisier when cold. I suspected an exhaust leak since the noise is more evident when the car is in the garage. So I took it to the dealership one morning and asked the service rep to have one of his mechanics listen to the noise. He was a bit reluctant and said that all of them were tied up...but finally agreed since it was only a matter of a few minutes. So I started the car up and and they noticed nothing unusual...the guy said that pretty much all these models sound like this. They noticed the sound only when I pushed the tab to increase acceleration. Another mechanic came by and said that the entire exhaust manifold was busted and that I'd have to change the manifold, gasket and the sensor (O2). They quoted $1,448 for parts and $255 for labor! I checked online and Delray Acura can ship me the same parts for $1050.
Since I've a 98 2.5TL the mainfold is not covered
I wanted to know - does a leak always mean a cracked manifold? I think the leak in my case is really mild...could it be the gasket going bad? I have a feeling that the dealership quoted me a worst case scenario price... the fact that they couldn't identify the leak initially and then come up with an analysis that the whole thing needs to be changed (with the sensor) seems somewhat fishy to me.
Has anyone experienced anything like this?
Thanks!!!

shag

I just went through the same problem, the 2.5 tl has a header instead of a casted manifold, which means it can be welded which I did, to fix mine. So just pull the manifold and take it to the muffler shop and have them weld it up, be carefull not to bang it around because the primary cat is part of the header and the primary o2 sensor is in the header as well. So just take your time. My header was craked at the collector right where the primary cat is flanged to it. I have a check engine light with a primary cat code, so I am going to take it to Acura because it is covered under the 14 year 140,000 mile emissions warranty. I have no more noise and I did not have to replace any parts, It took me about 3 hours from start to finish, the manifold is covered with heat sheilds and is a very tight fit. good luck.

dubcnea

could be a tire way out of balance/alignment. could be a warped rotor catching on the pads. could be a bad motor mount. i'm having the same issue, but not violent shaking....mine's more mild.

shag

What do you know about the motor mounts on the 2.5, the mounts are the first thing I suspected due to the vibration I am getting. I put it up in the air to have a look at the motor mounts and found that they are vacuum controlled. Please help out if you can.

dubcnea

those i am not too sure about. i have yet to deal with them directly on this car (knocking on wood til the cows come home). but ask in the main forum here and maybe someone can help you. this thread may not get as many views as the main could.