RCookman

Sometimes when coming off a stop, my RDX will not move. It seems as if it's in neutral. I can put the car into reverse and then into drive and it usually works. As anyone else encountered this?

Mr Marco

If no amount of engine revolutions on a flat surface (no hill start assist) will get your RDX to move forward, you have a problem. Take it in.

737 Jock

What year? How many miles?
Has the transmission fluid ever been changed?
Any other symptoms: noises, jerking, etc?

Absent any other symptoms, this sounds like low transmission fluid. If the fluid is low, then bringing up the level should stop the hesitation. However the transmission needs to be checked for leaks.

For a quick and simple check, pull the trans dipstick in the morning full cold. The fluid should be at least near the T in "HOT" or higher, up to the upper mark. Caution, don't top up the transmission unless you know how to do it. It's not difficult, but you have to get the level right.

Mr Marco

^Are you going to diagnose his transmission issue over a post?

OP, take your car to a qualified mechanic.

djbonsu

iTrader: (3)

^^^seems like he was just tryna help. whats wrong with that?

Mr Marco

chipmunk

Does it move really slowly or not move at all?

eqwang

I purchased my 2012 RDX a few months ago and it has similar issue. Once happened when I was driving on a local street and I suddenly found that the car won't pick up the speed when pressing the gas pedal. The speed meter and Turbo meter shows the higher reading though. I have to press the brake then the car worked as normal. Yesterday, it happened again when I stopped the car at a stop sign. The car almost won't move when I press the gas pedal, and the speed meter and turbo meter shows higher reading. I have to press the brake then gas pedal car started to move. I don't know if your car was fixed by the dealer. I called the service this Morning, and I was told that the intermittent issue can't be diagnosed by them if there is no service indicate is lighting up.
Another thing we experienced is that the radio screen will suddenly go almost complete dark when in driving. It will work fine again after restarting the car. It has happened 2-3 times in about half a year. The service man also mentions that it can't be diagnosed if it is an intermittent issue.

DRR98

^Video the problem next time it happens for proof to show the dealer. Show the controls moving and the bk/grd not.

If it happens only intermitently this may be the only proof you will get.

But if they can't find or fix that problem, scream very loudly at the dealer about the lawsuit you or your heirs may need to file with the video as exhibit A, right after you were hit/killed at the RR crossing.

Here in Cali we have a lemon law. If they can't fix your new cars problems in x attempts they are forced to buy it back at their loss.

eqwang

Thanks, DRR98. I will take your advice and try to record it next time if the situation is allowed. I understand that the issue might be very difficult to diagnosis, the thing that makes me uncomfortable is that the Acura service person who took the call doesn't even want to bring in the car for a checkup. He only made an appointment for us after I asked for an oil change and and reported the not working cigarette lighter problem (it has never worked), which he mentioned it won't be covered by warranty if it is a fuse issue.

I purchased my Saturn in 1997 and it had intermittent not startup issue. Event though they never diagnosis the issue, their dealership at least checked the car for me for a few times when I experienced the issue.

StephanieN

I have been having this exact same problem and this is THE ONLY place I have been able to find someone else who is. I am wondering if you were able to solve this problem???

Mr Marco

BTW: He has me on Ignor, so he can't see my posts. Another AZ user who loves to be seen, but can't handle the feedback

dcmodels

See post #3 and provide some data please. Also read the TL 3G forum section, as this is not an uncommon problem. We cannot diagnose a problem without some additional info.

737 Jock

I don't have anyone on Ignore.

Mr Marco

:heart:

Mr Marco

.

StephanieN

If anyone was interested (I posted that I had the same issues a few weeks back)....I took my car to a dealership and they recommended a transmission flush. I paid for a transmission flush and 2 days later the car issue got so bad it became undrivable. The dealership has had it almost a week and after having it looked at by their technicians and an Acura Engineer, they are recommending a full transmission replacement. At one point my car registered a solenoid issue but they haven't been able to get it to say anything more. If anyone has any related thoughts, they would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

dcmodels

^^^ Honda/ Acura specifically recommends against a *flush*, depending upon what the dealership actually did: a power flush, or just multiple drain-and-fills. A flush with a flush-machine is known to damage the trans.

Gen-3 TLs have more threads on this forum than any other model, concerning trans replacements/ problems/ solution?/ and just general info. Yes, the transmissions have changed (somewhat) during the past 10-15 years, but the basic design is at least similar. Hondas have gotten heavier and the power has increased, but the basic design of the trans, and the size, has not changed all that much - so it wears faster. That is simplistic, and I have no real proof that is true - but it is my opinion, and that of a lot of other people.

The Gen-3 and Gen-4 TL forums have many threads on cleaning the solenoid screens/ replacing the pressure switches as PM (preventative maintenance). These parts are electro-mechanical, do fail, and cause a decrease in line pressure, leading to trans clutch slipping, and a failed trans.

And there are many similar threads on the Honda forums for the Oddy in particular, as well as the V6 Accord. The I4 Accords, being lighter and having less power, seem to be much more reliable (with respect to the trans).

As stated several times in this thread: forum 101 says post year and mileage, as well as related maintenance info, as a minimum. Has the ATF ever been changed in your RDX? does the RDX have 10K or 200K miles? were any DTC (codes) reported with your problem? if you want help, or just comments, without some actual data from you, any response you receive here is just guessing (and may be just guessing anyway)

For general info about a trans, try this link, ignore the title and main subject (adding inline filters), and read the parts about transmision wear and how to prevent it. Specifically, the first part of post #1, and the last sections of post #3:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=803129

AHawk

2007 RDX w/Tech package. About 108k miles.

The same issue happened to me this afternoon. The radio/navigation screen went blank and restarted a couple times like it does when the car is initially started. At the next stop light, my RDX acted like it was in neutral. The engine revved when gas was applied but it barely moved. I've had the car for just over 3 years and this is the first time that this has happened to me.

Is anyone familiar with this issue?

Tomtwtwtw

Sounds more like intermittent electrical issues as opposed to the transmission itself. I've had a bad alternator cause similar symptoms before the car finally died - radio flickered, transmission stopped shifting, and eventually everything shut down as the battery went dead. If you're still going, you might have a bad battery and / or weak alternator...or it really could be any number of other things. But at least check those two things as it's easy to do and if nothing else, cross off your list.

superblast

I had something similar happen not too long ago. As Tomtwtwtw says, check the electrical in general. In my case, I had the battery replaced about a year before but they didn't grease the posts before connecting the cables so they had a lot of corrosion. Once I fixed that, the car never had the problem again.

Have your battery and alternator checked. Visually inspect for corrosion and make sure the cables are tight on the posts.

andres783

2008 RDX 150K miles, started running into this issue this week. Transmission will not give full power once accelerating, but if I shift to neutral at stop then shift to drive it will correct the issue. Seems to affect mainly when car is cold (CA winter so nothing extreme)

Have had the car since 2010 and have done regular maintenance as requested. Will check battery issues first, start up has not been totally smooth and may be an underlying issue causing other problems.

Tomtwtwtw

That reminds me, I noticed a good amount of corrosion on my battery posts the other day as well. Battery is 9 months old...no funky stuff happening in the car yet, I just saw it while changing my oil. Never had this issue on my old car (then again, the battery was in the trunk).

balbrain

This is a battery issue. I started having the same issue on by 08RDX Tech (90k miles) last month. Engine revs trying to go from a complete stop but doesnt move. Eventually the car seems to jolt to a higher gear and shifting was never smooth. I was noticing starting issues and fast battery drain, so I got the battery tested and found it to have a bad cell. With a new battery, the transmission issues seem to have gone away

fast1

Similar experience when my alternator died. I think it's an electrical issue and your electronic clutches for the Sh-AWD system is not getting what they need to properly engage.

geoff.alan

I have a 2008 RDX with 150,000km(95K miles). Same issue. The car also has a hard time starting once in a while. If it doesn't start on the first try, I usually turn the key quickly a second time and give the gas pedal a push and it goes.

Mechanic is saying the transmission needs work (quoting $2200 USD). Did you ever resolve your issue?

iforyou

iTrader: (1)

I had a similar issue a year ago, where after coming to a complete stop, when i press on the gas, the engine would rev up but the car wouldn't accelerate. I had to use the paddle shifters to shift the car to 1st before the car would move.

Turns out my battery was dying...after replacing that, it's all good.

geoff.alan

Sounds strange that your battery would have been causing this. I had my battery tested about 6 months ago and it was all good however it sounds like I should check it again.

Does anyone know if and why the battery or alternator can cause the transmission or the SH-AWD to not function properly?

Mr Marco

Geoff jarred an interesting memory about an issue I once had with the SH-AWD in the RDX.
Once, after a tire rotation in the dark, I had a Wheel ring stick on the hub and stack up with the other one on the new/rotated wheel. I drove about 15 miles before the wheel started working loose. The system threw a code and I got a SH-AWD light and malfunction warning on the MID.
Moral of the story: The system is pretty sensitive and a voltage drop could cause problems all over the electronic systems. Aaaand don't change your wheels in the dark.

Edit: here is the link to a thread on my rotation mishap/mistake:

https://acurazine.com/forums/car-tal...istake-837514/

Tomtwtwtw

The clutches and switches that control the transmission and AWD system need voltage to function as intended. As the battery gets weak, its voltage drops. Never had this problem on my RDX, but in one of my previous cars I had my alternator die on my unknowingly (no dash light), and as the last bit of juice in my battery went my radio started to go to static and my transmission stopped shifting. Eventually the car just stalled out when there wasn't enough electricity left to fire the spark plugs.

iforyou

iTrader: (1)

Yea, that's pretty much what happened lol. I, too, had never encounter something like this in my previous vehicles.

geoff.alan

Update: My Starter died and had it replaced. I was also due for a transmission fluid change. Had both done and now there have been no issues for the last 1000km. Go figure...

guavatone

I’m on a 2007 RDX W/ 115k and had this poor/no acceleration at a light last week. Then bing bing and SHAWD light came on. IIRC batter seemed low I plugged it into my WiFi and codes P1744 and P1780 came up. I’m hoping it’s a intermittent glitch since it hasn’t returned. It also jumped around at one point in reverse. I can’t remember when the status on ATF change. Too bad not much good information on this thread. Stay safe good people.

better info here:

https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-...7-help-930637/

CSmoney28

Check all fuses, then move onto the battery, then move onto the alternator, then onto the starter, and then onto the transmission pressure switches.