DIY: Transmission Fluid Flush by 3X Drain/Fill
03-26-2014, 01:55 PM
#81
I have been doing a 1 x drain and refill of the tranny fluid every 2nd engine oil change. this way by the time the MID tells you to do for a 3x drain and refill I have already been on my 3rd change of tranny fluid.
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azn-allstar (10-29-2014)
05-10-2014, 11:58 AM
#85
2010 RDX FWD base, 66k miles Last change unknown. Bought it with 25k on it. I did the procedure with dw1. It seems that the level was resting on or just touching the lower hole indicator. When I drained it and poured into a measured 1 gallon jug, it was just shy of 4qt whereas the manual says 3qt on a swap. On the first change, I used 3.75qt and that seemed to bring it back to the same level. On the second change, I used 4qt and that seemed to bring it just below the top hole. I was surprised since I've always seen just less than 3qt on a Honda swap.
It appears to be shifting much more smoothly.
Does anyone know what the volume is between the two markers?
It appears to be shifting much more smoothly.
Does anyone know what the volume is between the two markers?
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udelslayer (05-10-2014)
05-10-2014, 07:29 PM
#87
My book said 3.0qts. Dunno why the update, but 3.5 would have been more believable. I figured that it needs to sit overnight to get a real cold reading, which is what its doing now. I had drained it cold and got slightly less than 4qt, but the cold reading was at the bottom of the lowest mark. It almost seems to me to have been underfilled. It may just be the absolute lowest acceptable volume if it was delivered like that originally. When heat is applied, the stuff expands pretty fast.
To clarify this statement:
HOW TO READ THE TRANSMISSION OIL LEVEL of the RDX:
You can read your Owner’s Manual for the official method of taking a reading of the oil level of the transmission. For my car, the HOT reading is always about 3 to 4mm above the COLD reading. So I adjust the COLD reading about mid-point between the Hi and LO marks on the dip-stick. My car was delivered from the Dealer with the COLD reading at the bottom mark on the dip-stick.
Are you saying that you adjusted it so that bone cold next day overnight reads between the marks, so that when hot, it will rise to the top mark but almost not above it with the 4mm expansion? That would seem to me what you want.
My guess is that when people go for service or other situations, they cant wait overnight when doing this maintenance so they're looking for the quickest way to read and level it. I plan this stuff out since transmissions tend to be uber specific and since my wife (its her car) is away for a couple days I can take my time. I am slow and people complain, but I make sure I fix it right the first time.
To clarify this statement:
HOW TO READ THE TRANSMISSION OIL LEVEL of the RDX:
You can read your Owner’s Manual for the official method of taking a reading of the oil level of the transmission. For my car, the HOT reading is always about 3 to 4mm above the COLD reading. So I adjust the COLD reading about mid-point between the Hi and LO marks on the dip-stick. My car was delivered from the Dealer with the COLD reading at the bottom mark on the dip-stick.
Are you saying that you adjusted it so that bone cold next day overnight reads between the marks, so that when hot, it will rise to the top mark but almost not above it with the 4mm expansion? That would seem to me what you want.
My guess is that when people go for service or other situations, they cant wait overnight when doing this maintenance so they're looking for the quickest way to read and level it. I plan this stuff out since transmissions tend to be uber specific and since my wife (its her car) is away for a couple days I can take my time. I am slow and people complain, but I make sure I fix it right the first time.
05-10-2014, 08:25 PM
#88
Just because I'm paranoid, I'll ask... The car has been parked for about 4 hours now. The reading is about the middle between the dots. On the last fill I put 4qt, which seemed right to me. I'll be checking in the morning to expect the same reading, but does that sound right? I made sure to take it for a good ride for a couple of miles with some shift selections and there were no issues. In fact, it shifted the best thus far.
If the OP and others on here can fill his to the top hot mark when full cold, there seems to be some level of flexibility in a couple of ounces or 1/4 qt of fluid. I think the Honda procedure is to put this at the bottom dot at full cold and the readings in between are for _anything_ not cold. The books seems to care only that it reads between the marks when warm or hot.
If the OP and others on here can fill his to the top hot mark when full cold, there seems to be some level of flexibility in a couple of ounces or 1/4 qt of fluid. I think the Honda procedure is to put this at the bottom dot at full cold and the readings in between are for _anything_ not cold. The books seems to care only that it reads between the marks when warm or hot.
05-11-2014, 11:59 PM
#89
Just because I'm paranoid, I'll ask... The car has been parked for about 4 hours now. The reading is about the middle between the dots. On the last fill I put 4qt, which seemed right to me. I'll be checking in the morning to expect the same reading, but does that sound right? I made sure to take it for a good ride for a couple of miles with some shift selections and there were no issues. In fact, it shifted the best thus far.
If the OP and others on here can fill his to the top hot mark when full cold, there seems to be some level of flexibility in a couple of ounces or 1/4 qt of fluid. I think the Honda procedure is to put this at the bottom dot at full cold and the readings in between are for _anything_ not cold. The books seems to care only that it reads between the marks when warm or hot.
If the OP and others on here can fill his to the top hot mark when full cold, there seems to be some level of flexibility in a couple of ounces or 1/4 qt of fluid. I think the Honda procedure is to put this at the bottom dot at full cold and the readings in between are for _anything_ not cold. The books seems to care only that it reads between the marks when warm or hot.
Well, a warm reading or hot reading, taken after the vehicle has been sitting a short time, can actually read (incorrectly) high, even above the top marking hole, even though the trans is not overfilled, and may actually be underfilled.
Read the OM (owner manual) level-check procedure – it specifically states to take a *hot* reading between 60-90 seconds after turning off the engine. There is a reason for that. Otherwise the reading will be too high, meaning higher than the actual fill-level.
First, what is the ambient for a *cold* reading? For you it might be 110 degrees, for me it might be zero degrees. And that can make a difference in the level reading of 2-3 ounces, assuming that the amount of ATF between the two marks on the dip-stick is 8 ounces. Remember that around 175 degrees is considered *normal* ATF temp. Which is why there can be a difference in *cold* and *hot* readings.
And that is the reason why Honda wants you to check the trans level “with the engine at normal operating temperature”. Its just that can be difficult or tedious.
Second, after a drain/ fill of the trans, unless the procedure that is described earlier in this thread, for performing a 3x3, and proper mixing of the new with old remaining ATF, is followed, you will get neither a valid *hot* nor *cold* reading. That is, drive the vehicle, make certain that all gears are engaged, and the Converter is locked, etc. Read the Honda procedure for a FLUSH for details. For me, that may require 20-30 miles, unless I am very careful in the driving procedure.
Third, I always err on the *high* side when filling my trans and checking the level. Regardless of the time-of-year and the weather, I aim for a minimum level mid-way between the two marks on the dip-stick, for a *cold* reading.
And I try to always to take a *cold* reading at 60-80 degrees, and with a semi-heated garage, that is not as difficult as it may sound. And I compare that reading w/ any COLD reading taken at a higher or lower temp. Not that difficult since the temp where I live can vary 20-30 degrees in only one day. If that sounds OCD, well, perhaps so.
The FSM (factory service manual) says quote:
If the vehicle is driven when the ATF level is above the upper mark, the vehicle may creep forward while in N, or have shifting problem.
If the vehicle is driven when the ATF level is below the lower mark, one or more of these symptoms may occur:
> transmission damage
> vehicle does not move in any gear
> vehicle accelerates poorly, and flares when starting off in D and R
> the engine vibrates at idle
So, too full does not sound too bad – too low sounds very bad. I am unconcerned about being overfilled by 4 ounces. I would be very concerned about being UNDERFILLED by 4 ounces.
Last edited by dcmodels; 05-12-2014 at 12:09 AM.
05-12-2014, 11:10 PM
#90
I'm thinking that if my bone cold reading was at the bottom of the dot of the lower mark as its been for 60k, and its now at the mid between the two marks, then I should be in better shape.
The book procedure is dumb and one could easily overfill it. As long as while changing it that you replace the same amount using the bone cold reading as the baseline, that should be safe.
The book procedure is dumb and one could easily overfill it. As long as while changing it that you replace the same amount using the bone cold reading as the baseline, that should be safe.
05-17-2014, 11:48 AM
#91
Just fyi, it also appears that the small 1deg pitch of my garage floor sloping away from the house is enough angle to move the bone cold reading from the middle of the dots to the top of them. This is probably because the stick is oriented at the very front of the vehicle. That's good enough for a believed 4oz of fluid difference. Its probably a moot point since nobody will ever drive on a perfectly level surface.
05-19-2014, 04:28 AM
#92
Just fyi, it also appears that the small 1deg pitch of my garage floor sloping away from the house is enough angle to move the bone cold reading from the middle of the dots to the top of them. This is probably because the stick is oriented at the very front of the vehicle. That's good enough for a believed 4oz of fluid difference. Its probably a moot point since nobody will ever drive on a perfectly level surface.
I am surprised that 1deg makes that much difference. I have checked the ATF level of my own RDX, in two different garages, and the difference is about 2oz, although both garage floors are *level*. And I am aware that neither floor is perfectly level, having actually measured the slope of each garage floor. Yeah, I am that nuts.
05-19-2014, 12:25 PM
#93
Well, its an interesting observation. I assume that you noticed the difference, because you have parked (and checked the ATF level) with the car facing both directions inside your garage? Most people would never do that, and hence, would not notice such a difference.
I am surprised that 1deg makes that much difference. I have checked the ATF level of my own RDX, in two different garages, and the difference is about 2oz, although both garage floors are *level*. And I am aware that neither floor is perfectly level, having actually measured the slope of each garage floor. Yeah, I am that nuts.
I am surprised that 1deg makes that much difference. I have checked the ATF level of my own RDX, in two different garages, and the difference is about 2oz, although both garage floors are *level*. And I am aware that neither floor is perfectly level, having actually measured the slope of each garage floor. Yeah, I am that nuts.
All that safety wire confirms it
Most surfaces aren't level, especially garages that will have a 1deg or so pitch away if done properly. I parked in both directions and did a next day bone cold check and noticed the slight difference. The engineering has to account for that anyway so there is going to be built-in room for error. It is still very small. So long as its done from the same point of reference, you wont overshoot the measurement. I'm probably overthinking it though because I'm also paranoid about it since my lack of experience with this car....but all is good thus far.
07-10-2014, 10:40 AM
#95
Just did this 3x drain and fill with Honda DW1 on my 2012 RDX that has 40k miles. Shifting now definitely feel smoother, but I can feel the car would stop accelerate for a split second before it is shift to the next gear. This kinda feels like shifting a car with manual transmission, you let go of the gas pedal (the car would stop accelerate) and engage the clutch then shift. Since this is automatic, my foot is on the pedal the whole time, so I can feel this stop in acceleration just before the transmission shifts gears. This is very subtle, if this is someone else’s car, I probably wouldn’t notice it. Is this normal? The fluid level is at between the 2 holes when hot, cold check the level is right on the top holes, so I think the level is at where it should be.
12-05-2014, 05:47 PM
#96
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Just did this 3x drain and fill with Honda DW1 on my 2012 RDX that has 40k miles. Shifting now definitely feel smoother, but I can feel the car would stop accelerate for a split second before it is shift to the next gear. This kinda feels like shifting a car with manual transmission, you let go of the gas pedal (the car would stop accelerate) and engage the clutch then shift. Since this is automatic, my foot is on the pedal the whole time, so I can feel this stop in acceleration just before the transmission shifts gears. This is very subtle, if this is someone else’s car, I probably wouldn’t notice it. Is this normal? The fluid level is at between the 2 holes when hot, cold check the level is right on the top holes, so I think the level is at where it should be.
12-06-2014, 09:02 PM
#97
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Ok I looked in my owners manual. .looks like the car came with DW-1..
On ebay they have in line transmission filters, any of you used these filters? Are they add ons or part of the original build? Thank you in advance
On ebay they have in line transmission filters, any of you used these filters? Are they add ons or part of the original build? Thank you in advance
08-04-2015, 03:56 PM
#101
I have a 2008 RDX with 60k miles. As far as I know it has never had the trans fluid changed. Therefor I assume it has the ATF Z1.
I plan on doing a 1x change during evey motor oil change for the next 3 changes.
Is it safe to mix the new DW-1 with the old Z1 for the next 3 changes?
Cheers.
I plan on doing a 1x change during evey motor oil change for the next 3 changes.
Is it safe to mix the new DW-1 with the old Z1 for the next 3 changes?
Cheers.
08-19-2015, 11:58 PM
#103
Sheesh, why is the RDX forum so dead?
Sorry for another consecutive post, but I can't edit my posts yet, new account.
I found the exact same funnel, as well as 9mm OD nylon hose, but I could not find any kind of brass barb that is skinny on one end to fit into the 9mm and wider on the other end to fit into the funnel. Was looking at Home Depot.
Anyone know what kind of fitting OP used?? Where to get it?
Sorry for another consecutive post, but I can't edit my posts yet, new account.
I found the exact same funnel, as well as 9mm OD nylon hose, but I could not find any kind of brass barb that is skinny on one end to fit into the 9mm and wider on the other end to fit into the funnel. Was looking at Home Depot.
Anyone know what kind of fitting OP used?? Where to get it?
11-15-2015, 12:09 AM
#104
Sheesh, why is the RDX forum so dead?
Sorry for another consecutive post, but I can't edit my posts yet, new account.
I found the exact same funnel, as well as 9mm OD nylon hose, but I could not find any kind of brass barb that is skinny on one end to fit into the 9mm and wider on the other end to fit into the funnel. Was looking at Home Depot.
Anyone know what kind of fitting OP used?? Where to get it?
Sorry for another consecutive post, but I can't edit my posts yet, new account.
I found the exact same funnel, as well as 9mm OD nylon hose, but I could not find any kind of brass barb that is skinny on one end to fit into the 9mm and wider on the other end to fit into the funnel. Was looking at Home Depot.
Anyone know what kind of fitting OP used?? Where to get it?
Thanks OP - this method is very easy.. I ended up draining 4qt 5oz but I jacked the left side up just high enough to slide in a jack stand so that may have helped. I had surgery recently so I thought the extra room would be nice, plus I just completed the rear diff as well so my jack was already out. The I did not use a jack on the following two drains.. I only had 12qt of dw-1 so I wanted to keep the drained fluid under 4qt
11-16-2015, 06:59 AM
#105
What happened to the photo's they don't appear to be working anymore? Many Thanks Carl.
Perform Do-It-Yourself auto maintenance at your own risk. You can kill or injure someone or damage the car. Raise an auto only on a level, concrete floor. Do not go under any auto unless you are completely certain that it is secure. You and only you, are responsible for your work and safety.
There are many ways to raise an auto for service. Jacks, ramps, scissor lifts and stands, etc. All auto lifts share a few traits, though: they are cunning -- they hate you -- and they want you dead! The RDX weighs 3950 pounds. If it falls on you, that's 3850 more than it needs to crush your skull and emboss the phrase "engine oil" in mirror image on your forehead
. DO NOT go under an auto unless you are completely certain it is secure!
Front and rear, left and right is ALWAYS related to the car itself, NOT how you are facing it:
LEFT is always the DRIVER side.
RIGHT is always the PASSENGER side.
Text relates to the picture below the text.
Parts and tools needed:
1. One case (12 qts) Honda ATF-Z1.
2. Transmission drain plug seal washer, part # 90471-PX4-000.
3. Measuring funnel connected to 9 mm OD nylon hose, for filling through the dipstick.
4. A 10 mm wrench.
5. A 3/8" drive ratchet and short extension.
6. Small torque wrench (preferred).
7. Drain pan (minimum 4 liters) and old measuring container for measuring the drained fluid.
8. Eye protection, face protection, gloves and protective clothes.
9. Newspapers, rags, etc.
To service the RDX transmission, ensure that the engine is cool or only slightly warm. Put on your protective gear. Transmission fluid is hazardous to humans and will damage the car's paint.
Disconnect the negative battery cable (10mm). This safety precaution always applies to auto maintenance:
Look up at the bottom of the engine and you will see that the engine oil drain and transmission fluid drain are facing one another. Getting these two confused has made quickie-oil-change places famous for draining the tranny and then over-filling the engine with 5 additional quarts -- then ten miles down the road, the tranny is smoking and the engine is puking oil!
We should all try to avoid that sort of scenario and Honda has helpfully given us a few clues:
On the right is the engine oil drain, which takes a 17 mm hex wrench:
For our benefit, it is marked:
On the left is the transmission drain, which takes a 3/8" drive:
Use the 3/8" drive and extension to remove the drain bolt:
Drain the fluid and measure it. Honda says to expect 3.3 L (3.5 qts). It is difficult to determine the transmission fluid level, so it's important to replace exactly the amount drained:
While it's draining, examine the drain bolt. It has a magnet for capturing metal particles in the fluid. There should be some sludge on the magnet. This is normal:
Clean the drain bolt:
Here are the seal washers. On the left is the transmission fill seal -- I don't use this one. On the right is the transmission drain seal. Don't use this one yet. There are 3 tranny drain/fills. The new seal will go on after the last drain:
When the first drain is complete, wipe up the residual fluid and re-install the drain bolt with the old seal and snug it down. Don't over-torque the old seal -- it's only temporary.
Place the hood in the service position:
The transmission fill port is located on top of the tranny beneath the brake reservior. In this picture it is reflecting a flashlight so it appears close, but it's 35 cm (about 14") down there. It's nearly impossible to reach without removing the airbox and then a funnel or tube must be snaked down between the wires and components. Alternatively, filling through the dip-stick is slow, but so is removing and installing the airbox 3 times for each fill. I do not remove this plug , but if you want to use it, the seal washer is part # 90441-PK4-000.
This is a measuring funnel with nylon hose from WalMart. It has an on/off valve and cost about $3. I added a 9 mm OD nylon hose connected by a brass barb. The funnel hangs from the hood latch with some old house wire and the 9 mm hose fits perfectly into the dipstick tube -- won't shake loose and doesn't leak:
Remove the transmission dip-stick. Wipe it clean and place it aside:
Hang the funnel from the hoodlatch securely with house wire. Insert the 9 mm hose into the dip-stick tube about 25 mm. Close the funnel valve and add some ATF-Z1. Start with small amounts --be careful not to add so much that the funnel tips. Put the lid on the funnel to protect the fluid. It's a good precaution to cover the engine with newspaper as well.
When everything is secure, open the valve and start the flow:
Check for a good seal at the dip-stick tube:
Check for a good seal at the hose connection:
Add exactly the amount of new ATF-Z1 that was measured during the drain. Use the measuring funnel and the sight gauge on the bottles of ATF. Three/plus quarts should take about 15 minutes. Insert the dip-stick. Reconnect the negative battery cable and police the area before moving the car.
Drive the car around the neighborhood. Make sure it operates in all 5 gears and reverse, to circulate and mix the fluid, but don't get it hot. Five minutes will do.
Do the battery negative cable safety procedure. Drain the fluid again. Reuse the old drain seal washer. Fill and drive again.
On the 3rd drain/fill use the new drain seal washer and torque it enough to crush it slightly (49 N-m, 36 ft-lb).
To determine the actual amount in the tranny, use Honda's procedure in the owner's manual: Park the RDX on level ground (air conditioning off) and allow the engine to warm up to operating temperature. The radiator fans should come on once. Turn the engine off. Do not allow it to warm up beyond one fan operation. Check the transmission dip-stick within 60 to 90 seconds after turning the engine off. The level must be between the upper and lower marks. If needed, add or drain small amounts to adjust.
I did this procedure very carefully. Initially I had to extract 500 ml (using a fluid extractor), then added 100 ml back in. I got the level perfectly at the lower edge of the top hole using the Honda procedure.
Then I drove the car to full operating temperature and took readings. Immediately after shutdown it was on the T (in HOT). Over the next 90 seconds it climbed to the top hole. Five minutes later it climbed to 1 mm above the top hole. One hour later it was 2 mm above top hole. The next morning at full cold it had returned to the top hole where I had set it using Honda's procedure.
The point of all this is that it gives a pretty good reading after a hot drive if you check it in the 60-90 second window. It also shows the same level as the Honda procedure when checked full cold. I've been checkng it full cold for 4 years now and always get the same reading as the Honda procedure:
I first did a flush/replacement at 40k miles. I did this second one at another 35k miles. The improvement in shift smoothness and acceleration is marked and immediate, with fresh ATF. I plan to do this now every 30k miles.
A great place to dispose of your tranny fluid and engine oil is your local independant auto shop. They heat the service bays with waste oil and really appreciate it. You'll also make a friend with a shop
There are many ways to raise an auto for service. Jacks, ramps, scissor lifts and stands, etc. All auto lifts share a few traits, though: they are cunning -- they hate you -- and they want you dead! The RDX weighs 3950 pounds. If it falls on you, that's 3850 more than it needs to crush your skull and emboss the phrase "engine oil" in mirror image on your forehead
. DO NOT go under an auto unless you are completely certain it is secure!Front and rear, left and right is ALWAYS related to the car itself, NOT how you are facing it:
LEFT is always the DRIVER side.
RIGHT is always the PASSENGER side.
Text relates to the picture below the text.
Parts and tools needed:
1. One case (12 qts) Honda ATF-Z1.
2. Transmission drain plug seal washer, part # 90471-PX4-000.
3. Measuring funnel connected to 9 mm OD nylon hose, for filling through the dipstick.
4. A 10 mm wrench.
5. A 3/8" drive ratchet and short extension.
6. Small torque wrench (preferred).
7. Drain pan (minimum 4 liters) and old measuring container for measuring the drained fluid.
8. Eye protection, face protection, gloves and protective clothes.
9. Newspapers, rags, etc.
To service the RDX transmission, ensure that the engine is cool or only slightly warm. Put on your protective gear. Transmission fluid is hazardous to humans and will damage the car's paint.
Disconnect the negative battery cable (10mm). This safety precaution always applies to auto maintenance:
Look up at the bottom of the engine and you will see that the engine oil drain and transmission fluid drain are facing one another. Getting these two confused has made quickie-oil-change places famous for draining the tranny and then over-filling the engine with 5 additional quarts -- then ten miles down the road, the tranny is smoking and the engine is puking oil!
We should all try to avoid that sort of scenario and Honda has helpfully given us a few clues:
On the right is the engine oil drain, which takes a 17 mm hex wrench:
For our benefit, it is marked:
On the left is the transmission drain, which takes a 3/8" drive:
Use the 3/8" drive and extension to remove the drain bolt:
Drain the fluid and measure it. Honda says to expect 3.3 L (3.5 qts). It is difficult to determine the transmission fluid level, so it's important to replace exactly the amount drained:
While it's draining, examine the drain bolt. It has a magnet for capturing metal particles in the fluid. There should be some sludge on the magnet. This is normal:
Clean the drain bolt:
Here are the seal washers. On the left is the transmission fill seal -- I don't use this one. On the right is the transmission drain seal. Don't use this one yet. There are 3 tranny drain/fills. The new seal will go on after the last drain:
When the first drain is complete, wipe up the residual fluid and re-install the drain bolt with the old seal and snug it down. Don't over-torque the old seal -- it's only temporary.
Place the hood in the service position:
The transmission fill port is located on top of the tranny beneath the brake reservior. In this picture it is reflecting a flashlight so it appears close, but it's 35 cm (about 14") down there. It's nearly impossible to reach without removing the airbox and then a funnel or tube must be snaked down between the wires and components. Alternatively, filling through the dip-stick is slow, but so is removing and installing the airbox 3 times for each fill. I do not remove this plug , but if you want to use it, the seal washer is part # 90441-PK4-000.
This is a measuring funnel with nylon hose from WalMart. It has an on/off valve and cost about $3. I added a 9 mm OD nylon hose connected by a brass barb. The funnel hangs from the hood latch with some old house wire and the 9 mm hose fits perfectly into the dipstick tube -- won't shake loose and doesn't leak:
Remove the transmission dip-stick. Wipe it clean and place it aside:
Hang the funnel from the hoodlatch securely with house wire. Insert the 9 mm hose into the dip-stick tube about 25 mm. Close the funnel valve and add some ATF-Z1. Start with small amounts --be careful not to add so much that the funnel tips. Put the lid on the funnel to protect the fluid. It's a good precaution to cover the engine with newspaper as well.
When everything is secure, open the valve and start the flow:
Check for a good seal at the dip-stick tube:
Check for a good seal at the hose connection:
Add exactly the amount of new ATF-Z1 that was measured during the drain. Use the measuring funnel and the sight gauge on the bottles of ATF. Three/plus quarts should take about 15 minutes. Insert the dip-stick. Reconnect the negative battery cable and police the area before moving the car.
Drive the car around the neighborhood. Make sure it operates in all 5 gears and reverse, to circulate and mix the fluid, but don't get it hot. Five minutes will do.
Do the battery negative cable safety procedure. Drain the fluid again. Reuse the old drain seal washer. Fill and drive again.
On the 3rd drain/fill use the new drain seal washer and torque it enough to crush it slightly (49 N-m, 36 ft-lb).
To determine the actual amount in the tranny, use Honda's procedure in the owner's manual: Park the RDX on level ground (air conditioning off) and allow the engine to warm up to operating temperature. The radiator fans should come on once. Turn the engine off. Do not allow it to warm up beyond one fan operation. Check the transmission dip-stick within 60 to 90 seconds after turning the engine off. The level must be between the upper and lower marks. If needed, add or drain small amounts to adjust.
I did this procedure very carefully. Initially I had to extract 500 ml (using a fluid extractor), then added 100 ml back in. I got the level perfectly at the lower edge of the top hole using the Honda procedure.
Then I drove the car to full operating temperature and took readings. Immediately after shutdown it was on the T (in HOT). Over the next 90 seconds it climbed to the top hole. Five minutes later it climbed to 1 mm above the top hole. One hour later it was 2 mm above top hole. The next morning at full cold it had returned to the top hole where I had set it using Honda's procedure.
The point of all this is that it gives a pretty good reading after a hot drive if you check it in the 60-90 second window. It also shows the same level as the Honda procedure when checked full cold. I've been checkng it full cold for 4 years now and always get the same reading as the Honda procedure:
I first did a flush/replacement at 40k miles. I did this second one at another 35k miles. The improvement in shift smoothness and acceleration is marked and immediate, with fresh ATF. I plan to do this now every 30k miles.
A great place to dispose of your tranny fluid and engine oil is your local independant auto shop. They heat the service bays with waste oil and really appreciate it. You'll also make a friend with a shop
11-16-2015, 04:18 PM
#106
Why 3 x fill? Overkill?
I drain and refill the trans when I change the oil and filter.
I fill thru the dipstick.
I put back about the same amount as drained but not to the micro liter level recommended by some here. Close is fine.
$25/M1oil, $13/M1filter, $28/DW-1
~ $70 with tax
It's too easy.
I drain and refill the trans when I change the oil and filter.
I fill thru the dipstick.
I put back about the same amount as drained but not to the micro liter level recommended by some here. Close is fine.
$25/M1oil, $13/M1filter, $28/DW-1
~ $70 with tax
It's too easy.
01-01-2016, 07:44 AM
#108
OP was probably sharing the photos with photobucket or something similar and most likely removed the pictures so I doubt we will see those pictures again. Would be nice however.
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pjhalifax (02-10-2016)
02-29-2016, 08:19 AM
#113
thanks op and others
Did a 1x drain and fill on my wife's car. Car was cold during the fluid change. Will be doing two more iterations later in the week. Car has 117k miles and a shop did a BG flush at 56k. Fluid was noticeably darker and smellier than new.
I did something similar to OP for this 1x. Drained fluid and measured, then added the same amount of fluid using a penzoil siphon pump. According to the Acura service manual, drain should yield around 3.5 quarts and I was just under that, though fluid was still dripping before I put the drain plug back in. Siphon pump worked but was pretty tedious. I'll try the funnel idea for the next two drain and fills.
One thing that was surprising to me was how long it took the car to warm up and start the radiator fan. I know it's winter but I'm in Florida (65F yesterday) and it seemed to take forever, at least 25 minutes. I'm used to changing trans fluid in a bmw and, for their process, it takes my car about 5-7 minutes to bring trans fluid to operating temp for measuring the fluid level. On the acura, fluid was slightly above the hot mark after the fan came on.
Car drives fine and trans shifts well...though level check suggested fluid might be slightly high. Service manual suggests some symptoms of high level such as car creeping when in neutral, but I don't have any symptoms.
I did something similar to OP for this 1x. Drained fluid and measured, then added the same amount of fluid using a penzoil siphon pump. According to the Acura service manual, drain should yield around 3.5 quarts and I was just under that, though fluid was still dripping before I put the drain plug back in. Siphon pump worked but was pretty tedious. I'll try the funnel idea for the next two drain and fills.
One thing that was surprising to me was how long it took the car to warm up and start the radiator fan. I know it's winter but I'm in Florida (65F yesterday) and it seemed to take forever, at least 25 minutes. I'm used to changing trans fluid in a bmw and, for their process, it takes my car about 5-7 minutes to bring trans fluid to operating temp for measuring the fluid level. On the acura, fluid was slightly above the hot mark after the fan came on.
Car drives fine and trans shifts well...though level check suggested fluid might be slightly high. Service manual suggests some symptoms of high level such as car creeping when in neutral, but I don't have any symptoms.
09-17-2016, 10:38 AM
#114
Thanks for the DIY. Just did the B13 service on my (almost) 160k mile '09.
I drove about 100 miles between each flush. I figured that would ensure I got all the old out (plus, i didn't have time to do all three in one go).
Instead of linking hose together, I purchased this long hose funnel thing (Walmart) and tightened if over the dipstick tube with a hose clamp. Worked perfectly.
I drove about 100 miles between each flush. I figured that would ensure I got all the old out (plus, i didn't have time to do all three in one go).
Instead of linking hose together, I purchased this long hose funnel thing (Walmart) and tightened if over the dipstick tube with a hose clamp. Worked perfectly.
06-10-2017, 12:04 PM
#116
Just thought Id share my experience between D4 and DW1. I did 2 1x4 flushes with the D4 and all I can say is it is OVER RATED. rough shifts all around, low RPM, High RPM, grade logic, just overall terrible feeling, not sure why all the praise. Just did 2 1x4 drain and fills going back to DW1 and the car feels great again buttery smooth shifts. Redline is a joke in my eyes. They make good oil but stick to OEM for ATF. Just my opinion, sounds like some people prefer the rough shift, to me it just feels like crap getting jerked around every shift. Also I say I do 1x4 because I get the fluid hot and then jack up the one side so it drains more, I end up with 4 quarts drained each time. And by hot I mean I do it after my occasional 90 mile commute home from one of our far offices, if you do it like this be sure to wear some good gloves and dont sear your palm off lol.
11-14-2017, 09:45 PM
#117
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03-03-2018, 06:13 PM
#118
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Great post but why can't I see the pics?
Just checked the trans fluid level and it is a bit low so ordering a case from Amazon. Will top up with DextronIII and do the 3 x 3 drain and refill next week. The thread that goes into detail on the procedure has a pic icon but no picture. Not sure what is going on there.
03-03-2018, 06:57 PM
#119
Just checked the trans fluid level and it is a bit low so ordering a case from Amazon. Will top up with DextronIII and do the 3 x 3 drain and refill next week. The thread that goes into detail on the procedure has a pic icon but no picture. Not sure what is going on there.
Worked for me.
