user65

So I spent a little time on the subwoofer box yesterday and ended up with something like this:


At first I just laid the sound deadener flat over the waffles in the box, but decided I'd probably be limiting the very little air space that's currently present. Overall I put this stuff behind the box, wheel well, etc. I also threw it on the back side and front side of the box. Ended up weighing 7-8 pounds when I was done compared to the 1-2 it was previously. Did very little testing, but the sub hits much harder. I used KnuKonceptz Kno Knoise Kolossus.

During the removal and disassembly I noticed this little circuit board within the box. I'm not sure what this is, some sort of amp or cross over?


Basically this little device sits mounted inside the speaker box, and a wiring plug goes into it. The plug has green/red/black-silver and one other color. According to the wiring diagram the green/red are pos/neg for the sub. But I'm not sure what the others are for.

My question is, do I run my lineout converter to the red/white coming off of that circuit board, or do I tap directly into the green/red that the wiring plug has? Does anyone have the electrical book for this car that could help me determine what those other wires are going to that circuit board?

Thanks in advance.

Vividsi

looks good, I have a whole box of dynamat and my friend told me he thought my sub was acting up so I may have to take it apart and see whats going on.

user65

Here's the sub I replaced mine with, recommended in another post. It sounds OK, the stock one almost matches the kicker but doesn't hit as hard, but with an amp it'll blow it away I'm sure. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...4-10CVT84.html

I'd recommend taking off the 2 nuts and 2 bolts holding the entire black box against the car. I wasn't thinking and took off half of the screws holding the box together. Don't forget the wiring plug for that crossover/amp(?) mounted inside the box. I'd recommend mounting with all 8 screws, when I tried the stock 4 screws, air would escape out of the remaining holes and it sounded like shit.

08FLrdxSH-AWD

I'd like to know how to tap into the audio signal and remote signal to install a new amplifier and my 12" memphis mojo. Obviously not going to try to mount a 12 in the stock location but that might become the old subs location might become the amplifiers new home.

TheWrench116

iTrader: (1)

dumb question what size is the factory sub? 8 10 6?

wspy

8

TheWrench116

iTrader: (1)

thanks wspy I think I'm going to go for a 8W3 from jl I've used there stuff in the past to good effect.

CR-X SIR-T

As long as it is a shallow mount sub it should fit.

MrBlue

Specs on the wires r as follows:
the five wires from the factory system are:
Black = Ground
Blue = Constant 12v
Aqua Blue= Amp 12v Control
Red = 5.7V (High Voltage Audio Signal)
Green = 5.7V (High Voltage Audio Signal)

MrBlue

I am now working on my rear sub as I have all Focal V165 Component Speakers in place of all the stock tweeters and speakers, they are powered by a Kicker KX 400.4 Amp and tuned using a Kicker KQ5 EQ. I have a Kicker 800.1 Mono block amp for the Kicker Comp Shallow mount RT 10" i am putting in place of the factory 8". I will have to modify and fabricate on the existing enclosure to get it to fit and seal.

After measuring the inside of the Sub encloser i am speculating the most of 2 cubic feet of space. My Kicker Comp RT 10 list the min at .4 and the max at 2 so i should be in specs for a sealed enclosure. We will C how it sounds.

BTW!!! I am still working on the supports for the rear cover/lid so its not finished yet.

MrBlue

Correction on the specs...

I recalculated the internal volume of the stock enclosure and came up with .58 cubic ft which does not including the area where the magnet sits or the additional 30 cubic inches of area i will be adding to the enclosure by mounting the 10 to the outside of the housing ( i will be cutting out the 8" mounting area to accommodate the 10" sub).
Now I need to plan a bit of Plastic Welding to seal the area where the new sub will fit.
I am not going to initially Dyno Mat it due to the limited internal volume of the enclosure; i may after i get it together.

MrBlue

If anyone else has a more accurate measurement please let me know; I think I calculated it correctly however this is the first time doing this so I could have missed something. Thanks

Nate.E

Hey did you finish this install? How did it sound? I'm looking to do this myself.

MrBlue

unfortunantly it sounded flat with little bass response. If u convert the entire area into an enclouser that would help. I just ended up with two 10" in a ported kicker box standing on end and secured to the factory brackets.

Nate.E

Damn....finding a cost effective/ space saving install idea for this car sucks hard