butwhydoitalk2u

hello gents,

i am having this issue with overheating in my 99 cl 3.0. i haven't been able to pin point and before i start part swapping i want to see if there is anyone that has had a similar issue. first off the issue, the car stated to overheat 2 days ago and it would go all the way to the hot when before it wouldn't go pass the 1/4 mark when i was on idle. i drive for a little bit now and it flucuates from the hot to 3/4 to 1/2 and back up, whether i have the a/c on, heat on, or air all off. today i changed the thermostat and flushed the radiator. The temperature now stays at 1/2 and a little more while on idle. When i start to drive, no a/c, the temp stays about the same at 1/2, when i turn the a/c on the temp goes down slightly below the 1/2 but not quite to the 1/4 mark and back up again. I also noticed while i was driving that if i let go off the accelerater that the temperture gauge jumps to a higher setting, like from a little below half to a little above half, and when i press the accelerater again it jumps back down.
The fans on the car are working, after a certain while they turn on, but they also do not turn on for a significant amount of time, more like seconds than minutes. i did a thermometer test to the coolant while on idle and i have around 190, but in order for the fans to turn on where i can notice them, i have to be on the gas at idle.
can the problem be the fan? but why the flucuating of the gauge?
also, i have my check engine light on i went ot autozone and it gave me a code of p0401 which is for the EGR, would this affect anything?

TexasHonda

I suspect you have air trapped in the system from your T'stat replacement. There is a bleeder screw on the T'stat housing to allow air to be bled out as you pour in coolant at the radiator inlet.

good luck

DjXtC34

i think your problem is ur thermostat. it might just be reading wrong due to running the engine on hot for so long it tends to burn out. this happened to me on another vehicle. get that checked out and i also suggest u change ur fans to always be on. ur fans can be wired difffrently to always be on while the car is on and this helps in cooling your car at any situation.i live in miami florida so i feel ur pain. hope this helped.

butwhydoitalk2u

new issue: i am still trying to figure out this situation i am in, i did replace the thermostat but did not do the bleeding thing, where exactly is it? is it just a regular bolt on the thermostat housing? well, today the car started to go into the red, so i checked it all out, put the thermometer in the radiator and let it warm up for about 10 min, at about 210 degrees the fans kicked in to maintain the temp. I checked the gauge and it is just about to the "H", so i tried to check to see if maybe the sender was disconnected or not connected correctly, well, i broke the plastic housing where the connector connects to (i'll going to replace it anyway this just gave me a reason to do it now). Now when i turn on the car the needle goes racing to the hot and when it gets there it doesn't stop it's like a quarter of the way past the hot. So it's really really hot, i really have no idea why it would do that, once again i check the temp of the radiator with the thermometer. When the engine was cold it would be like 80 degrees, and it would climb slowly to the 180, and to get it to really go to 210 i have to rev the engine a bit. the fans still kick in, and both radiator hoses are hot and liquid is flowing through the radiator. What else can it be? a bad gauge? wouldn't the coolant temperature sensor tell the gauge what temp it is? HELP!!!

Memo26

if u already checked the termostat and it seems fine. i recommend that u check ur water pump. i had a smilar problem with my 97 cl. the water was getting to the radiator so my car would heat super fast.

Memo26

the water was not getting to my radiator... (my bad)

bRunCL

iTrader: (1)

search search search. There are tons of threads with people that have had similar problems.https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...radiator+bleed . Most likely you need an oem t stat and then bleed your cooling system to get all of the trapped air out. also try putting your heat all the way up and see if the needle drops at all.