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Nope..
Stock stuff is Dino oil pretty off the shelf crap, Using the Mobil 1 LS is an actual upgrade even with the lower W rating.
Yes I am using the Mobil 1 LS for the transfer myself.
^ That is a usual weight for dino oil so it might be outdated..
Synthetics being way better can spec down and being just as good. Mobil 1 LS is one of the top 3 Differential/Transfer Fluids on the market.
80W-90 vs 75W-90
Same temp just slightly different viscosity, Can add a minuscule amount of MPGs since it has less restriction.
Not sure that's how it works. A quality syn is a better version of oil, but the viscosity number specs are the same. Where do you get your data about being able to choose different numbers? In all of the round and round oil talk on motorcycle forums, nobody with insight has ever suggested engine oil spec requirements can be adjusted with synthetic oils.
Its like saying we cant use 0W-20 oil for the engine when we can, Its just about the right circumstances.. Fatty (Megamod) uses 0W-20 in his TL since he lives in a freezing state. No issues at all and the car asks for 5W-20.
What makes YOU think it will hurt anything since Mobil 1 is already giving extra protection over normal Dino Oil? Let alone the slight difference of 5W. Its not like the car asks for 80 and he is putting 60, That would be a huge difference. If the oil can handle the difference its OK and since Mobil 1 LS is top of the line I believe it can even go lower.. In this case 75W-90 is the closest OEM Spec synthetic wise.
What makes YOU think it will hurt anything since Mobil 1 is already giving extra protection over normal Dino Oil? Let alone the slight difference of 5W. Its not like the car asks for 80 and he is putting 60, That would be a huge difference. If the oil can handle the difference its OK and since Mobil 1 LS is top of the line I believe it can even go lower.. In this case 75W-90 is the closest OEM Spec synthetic wise.
It seems as though you're talking about two different things. Now I'm no oil engineer, but I have discussed this very topic and others with people who are.
What "extra protection" are you buying in to with synthetic oil?
The engineers who designed the engine and transmission had their choice of oil specifications and they picked the one they did for a reason. That part is beyond my experience so let's not debate the merits of 90w vs 80w vs 75w. If Honda spec'd 80w-90, that's what you should use unless the owners' manual allows for a range based on air temps, operating exposure, etc, in which case you have your choice. But they didn't. If you want to know why, call Honda. Your random guess alternate choice is second guessing a well thought out and designed choice.
Dino oil is much different than synthetic. Dino is made from molecules that vary in diameter that act as ball bearings. Synthetic, since it's created not pumped from the ground, is comprised of evenly sized molecules, acting as ball bearings and this is part of where your "extra protection" benefit is. It's a much more consistent lubricant.
On to the weights. Dino oil, let's use 5W-20 for your example, is in essence a 5W oil that has chemical modifiers added to make it act like a 20W when it's hot. These chemicals break down and eventually "wear out". Synthetic oil is a 20W oil engineered to have characteristics of a 5W when cold and doesn't need or have the added chemicals required by dino oil so it has a longer service life.
If the engine is spec'd for a 5W-20 you can use a 0, or a 5 based on your anticipated ambient air temps, because that number is only effective when the engine is cold. At the same time I wouldn't use a 10W. That's out of spec. Again, engineers specified a 5W for a reason. If 10W would suffice they would have gone with that.
We can all be specific like that.. So in your scenario You probably NEVER USE AFTERMARET parts right? And I mean not even mods ever.. Because Honda designed the car to be driven with all OEM Parts not Aftermarket. This applies even to your bikes! You ONLY USE OEM for every single bit and bolt and oils? even adding a steering dampening is going against OEM.
Synthetic has shit loads better properties than Dino oil, In every single scenario Synthetic is better than Dino Oil you can see all the threads in Bobistheoilguy I am too lazy to copy and paste here..
Also that same spec is what the guys at JEEPS are using.. Same scenario they even use 90W as OEM but still use Mobil 1 LS 75W-90 in their rock crawlers... If this oil works for them going Rubicon and Crawling with 35" tires? it will work just fine for Hondas puny PTU.
Also I am in 15K with Mobil 1 LS in our MDX Transfer..
Also to Add..
Our PTU is not even demanding, It uses a very small ring and pinion which does not even compare to that of a big diff which is what the Mobil 1 LS was designed for.. What I mean, Mobil 1 LS for our PTU is just plain OVERKILL so even at 75W it easily out specs the OEM Stuff.. If you want specifics like oil tests and analysis well I cant help you with that. But I think in this case you might be thinking that the OEM Oil is some kind of specific stuff made just for our cars like ATF (DW-1) or the SH-AWD Fluid (AWD-DPSF) but nope the Transfer uses off the shelf GEAR OIL.. Which as much as engine oil can be replaced for something better, Sadly Mobil 1 LS does not come in 80W, But if you are sooooooo worried about 5W AMSOIL does have a 80W-90 alternative..
This is our PTU (Yes even from a 2001 still applies TODAY)
Gear oil designed for big ring/pinion combos is not necessarily better for small ring/pinion combos. OEM vs Aftermarket parts has nothing to do with what is spec'd for lubrication. There are trade-offs in most things. You are choosing to overrule the intelligent and engineered decision of the people that made the transfer case. I will admit I am not educated sufficiently in the area to make such a decision. So I don't. If 5wt differences didn't have an impact, I bet Honda would have made an option noted so you could choose accordingly. Maybe they did - I haven't seen one.
AWD-DPSF is the new oil for the Rear Differential.. Since Z1 was discontinued and DW1 is not meant for diff use, Acura designed the AWD-DPSF to replace Z1 as Rear Diff Oil..
This is the recommended fluid for the Rear Differential in SH-AWD Cars... DONT USE ANYTHING ELSE.
08200-9007A Notice the "A" at the end this is important because without that "A"
08200-9007 < This is normal "DPSF" Fluid intended to be used only for the CR-V AWD.
Damn...I JUST got through changing the transfer case to Mobile 1 and the rear differential to DW1 because the owners manual said to use transmission fluid.
It looked like red thin trans fluid that came out.
Do you think it hurt anything to drive it tonight about 25 miles ?
Ok , I read where AWD fluid is a darker Carmel color than the trans fluid.
What came out sure looked like red transmission fluid, so I'm guess that may have been the old ZF1 fluid.
And since DW1 is backward compatible with ZF1, should it hurt to run the DW1 back until tomorrow?
Read behind the DW1 quart. It says not to be used in AWD Differentials, So while it replaced Z1 for transmission use is not able to replace Z1 for the rear Diff.
Most likely you had Z1 still there which is safe to use.
Remember the part number!
08200-9007A Notice the "A" at the end this is important because without that "A"
08200-9007 < This is normal "DPSF" Fluid intended to be used only for the CR-V AWD.
You don't want 08200-9007
You want 08200-9007A
Some dealerships will push normal DPSF and tell you its the same as AWD DPSF... IT IS NOT! Both products smell and look completely different.
Thanks!! On the way this AM. The dealership is mainly full of A-holes who know everything, even when they're wrong, so I'm gonna spell it out for them.
06-01-2016, 03:07 PM
