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I am buying a 2007 Sport with 102k. Anything I should know?

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Old 02-22-2017, 09:43 PM   #1
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I am buying a 2007 Sport with 102k. Anything I should know?

I have owned Honda/Acura's for over 20 years. I actually work for a Honda dealer and have worked for Honda for over 20 years. I own an RL now and have learned all about it quirks/common problems with that model. AFS, battery not lasting, parking brake rattle, etc.

​​​​​​ I know all about the usual brakes, timing belt, plugs, fluids, etc. I am just concerned about common quirks or issues that might not be common knowledge. For example I am aware of the electronic shocks costing a ridiculous amount to replace. Luckily the one I am buying has all new shocks already. Mine has the audio pop when starting which I have already read might be a firmware update or an amp issue. The CD changer was just repaired as well so that is all set. I also know engine mounts are always an issue with Honda/Acura V6 motors.

Are there any other issues I should be concerned about? It is a 2007 Sport model with 102k.
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Old 02-22-2017, 10:30 PM   #2
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-HFL Unit going bad which causes a parasitic draw (Yes it is incredibly common on the early 2G) >
-Driver door sub harness going bad causing a lot of headaches > DIY: Replacing Door Sub-Harness
-Gas cap getting stuck (There is a TSB for it, affects mostly in the freezing states)
-Side mirrors actuators going bad (Affects a lot of vehicles, cheap to replace)

That is what I would select as the most common things to go bad in the Early (07-09) 2G MDX.
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Old 02-22-2017, 10:37 PM   #3
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Make sure the navigation system works and CHECK THE WHEEL WELLS FOR RUST. I don't know if it's a honda thing or what, but most Honda's I have seen that old almost always have rust on the rear wheels wells. Also, if it doesn't have running boards/side sills, make sure that you check the lower doors for chips, mine was chipped HORRIBLY to all hell. Also check the gas cap, like lress the button inside and make sure it doesn't get stuck. Otherwise Steven has got it pretty much fully covered!
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Old 02-23-2017, 02:19 AM   #4
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Thank you for the responses! I know the HFL can be an issue. I have been lucky with my 05 RL but I've read a lot about the issue.

No rust issues as of now. It does have running boards so maybe that helped prevent it?

I will check the gas cap issue. I can't imagine that is a big deal unless it is stuck when your empty. Then it could be a huge issue. Lol

The Navigation is working well but I have noticed the black level isn't as good as my RL. Looks almost grayish. I know this an 07 tech and not an LG OLED screen but it looks horrible compared to my 05 RL screen. I changed the night map to blue and it looks fine like that. I will probably update the map but it appears to be working properly. It does seem to respond slower than my RL as well but it is working. They seem to be the same system but not exactly. Like the volume for the radio doesn't show when audio is selected. It does on my RL. Minor difference but worth mentioning.

It sounds like most issues are fairly minor and correctable at this point. Hopefully this MDX is a good replacement for my wife's 04 Pilot. That thing has been a great truck and I am hoping for the same with this MDX.
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Old 02-23-2017, 02:37 AM   #5
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Thank you for the responses! I know the HFL can be an issue. I have been lucky with my 05 RL but I've read a lot about the issue.

No rust issues as of now. It does have running boards so maybe that helped prevent it?

I will check the gas cap issue. I can't imagine that is a big deal unless it is stuck when your empty. Then it could be a huge issue. Lol

The Navigation is working well but I have noticed the black level isn't as good as my RL. Looks almost grayish. I know this an 07 tech and not an LG OLED screen but it looks horrible compared to my 05 RL screen. I changed the night map to blue and it looks fine like that. I will probably update the map but it appears to be working properly. It does seem to respond slower than my RL as well but it is working. They seem to be the same system but not exactly. Like the volume for the radio doesn't show when audio is selected. It does on my RL. Minor difference but worth mentioning.

It sounds like most issues are fairly minor and correctable at this point. Hopefully this MDX is a good replacement for my wife's 04 Pilot. That thing has been a great truck and I am hoping for the same with this MDX.
Yes rhe running boards most definitely helped prevent the rust/damage. The gas lid getting stuck isn't as bas as say something inside the engine being wrong. But it is horrible to spend 20 minutes at the gas station in -30 weather trying to get it to open when your gas light is on. Ask me how I know lol.
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Old 02-23-2017, 06:22 AM   #6
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If it is a sport model, I would have Acura check out the magnetic struts and shocks. Does the mode switch between comfort and sport when you push the button. The center console ADS light turns green for comfort mode and the M.I.D. displays a MDX and the word "Comfort" in the display. If you hit the light again, the console light goes off and the M.I.D. shows the same picture with the word "Sport". I'm not sure what you will get if the previous owner already converted the struts/shocks to regular and put a resistor to turn off the warnings? Sometimes you will have some, all, or none of the symptoms of knocking, clunking, or leaking if they are going bad (I had knocking/clunking at low speed suspension travel for my fronts like going over a speed bump). There is an extended warranty; but, it is only to 100,000 miles. It could cost around $700-$1000 per corner to replace out of pocket. There are a few threads on folks converting to regular struts/shocks and adding a resistor to turn off the ADS light.

There is also a big service due around 100,000 miles that can cost $700-$1200 depending on the dealership and what needs to be done (serpentine belt, spark plugs, valve adjustment, check water pump, etc...). It could be a considerable savings if the magnetic suspension was good and the 100k service was already performed. It is pretty much just tire rotations and fluid changes after the 100k service for a while.
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Old 02-23-2017, 09:28 AM   #7
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If it is a sport model, I would have Acura check out the magnetic struts and shocks. Does the mode switch between comfort and sport when you push the button. The center console ADS light turns green for comfort mode and the M.I.D. displays a MDX and the word "Comfort" in the display. If you hit the light again, the console light goes off and the M.I.D. shows the same picture with the word "Sport". I'm not sure what you will get if the previous owner already converted the struts/shocks to regular and put a resistor to turn off the warnings? Sometimes you will have some, all, or none of the symptoms of knocking, clunking, or leaking if they are going bad (I had knocking/clunking at low speed suspension travel for my fronts like going over a speed bump). There is an extended warranty; but, it is only to 100,000 miles. It could cost around $700-$1000 per corner to replace out of pocket. There are a few threads on folks converting to regular struts/shocks and adding a resistor to turn off the ADS light.

There is also a big service due around 100,000 miles that can cost $700-$1200 depending on the dealership and what needs to be done (serpentine belt, spark plugs, valve adjustment, check water pump, etc...). It could be a considerable savings if the magnetic suspension was good and the 100k service was already performed. It is pretty much just tire rotations and fluid changes after the 100k service for a while.
It is a sport model with the magnetic shocks. All of them have already been replaced with OEM magnetic shocks and they are working perfectly!

I will be having the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, valve adjustment, plugs, fluids, etc all done right away.
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Old 02-23-2017, 10:51 AM   #8
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It is a sport model with the magnetic shocks. All of them have already been replaced with OEM magnetic shocks and they are working perfectly!

I will be having the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, valve adjustment, plugs, fluids, etc all done right away.
Whew!!

Having bad ADS shocks/struts at 102,000 miles would have a deal breaker for me. The 100K service is just normal stuff I can deal with. That might have been the reason someone traded in the MDX, 100K service and ADS suspension being out of warranty.
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Old 02-23-2017, 12:08 PM   #9
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Whew!!

Having bad ADS shocks/struts at 102,000 miles would have a deal breaker for me. The 100K service is just normal stuff I can deal with. That might have been the reason someone traded in the MDX, 100K service and ADS suspension being out of warranty.
I know all about how expensive the ADS shocks are. It really is insane. If the shocks were bad I wouldn't be buying it. Hopefully they will hold up for me since they have been replaced already.
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Old 02-25-2017, 07:15 AM   #10
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I have had most of the common issues since taking care of my wife's 2008 mdx. Hands free blue tooth module went out, on the second serpentine tensioner, a/c relay went out even though it's a $10 part no a/c was the result on a hot day, key fob button broke, drain and fill the trans often don't let it get ahead of you transmissions weren't the best, when I did the spark plugs the center plug on each bank were loose. Oh yeah, intermittent oil pressure warning, replaced the sensor for $25 and it was fixed. All of this is minimal in my book since easy to repair and currently the truck is at 121k miles and running great.

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Old 02-25-2017, 01:09 PM   #11
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I know all about how expensive the ADS shocks are. It really is insane. If the shocks were bad I wouldn't be buying it. Hopefully they will hold up for me since they have been replaced already.
I don't know if they ever actually changed the shocks in any way, like I don't think they were ever modified since 2007 by the manufacturer so even with the new shocks, it is probably still going to randomly get wrecked at some point. I'm beyond happy to have sold my MDX before the shocks tanked on me.
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Old 02-25-2017, 04:25 PM   #12
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I have had most of the common issues since taking care of my wife's 2008 mdx. Hands free blue tooth module went out, on the second serpentine tensioner, a/c relay went out even though it's a $10 part no a/c was the result on a hot day, key fob button broke, drain and fill the trans often don't let it get ahead of you transmissions weren't the best, when I did the spark plugs the center plug on each bank were loose. Oh yeah, intermittent oil pressure warning, replaced the sensor for $25 and it was fixed. All of this is minimal in my book since easy to repair and currently the truck is at 121k miles and running great.
Thanks. The loose spark plugs are a known issue with Honda V6 motors. When I install the plugs I tighten them to 25-30 ft lbs instead of the recommended 12-15 ft lbs. I also use anti seize on the threads. After driving it for a few weeks I will check them with the torque wrench again. Since I have been doing it this way I haven't had a loose or ejected plug luckily. Most mechanics don't use a torque wrench rather they have a "feel" for it. They have told me they usually go 1/4 of a turn after they feel the crush gasket compress. I don't know what the best solution is but the recommended 12-15 fl lbs is too low in my opinion. The difference between 15-30 ft lbs isn't that much but it seems to be enough to prevent them from loosening in my experience. I wouldn't go any higher than 30 ft lbs or you risk stripping the threads in the head.

The rest of the items you mentioned I would consider normal as well. Hopefully I don't have an issue with the HFL. I like that feature and I would rather not have to disconnect it. I don't know what it cost to replace it.
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Old 02-26-2017, 10:50 AM   #13
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Thanks. The loose spark plugs are a known issue with Honda V6 motors. When I install the plugs I tighten them to 25-30 ft lbs instead of the recommended 12-15 ft lbs. I also use anti seize on the threads. After driving it for a few weeks I will check them with the torque wrench again. Since I have been doing it this way I haven't had a loose or ejected plug luckily. Most mechanics don't use a torque wrench rather they have a "feel" for it. They have told me they usually go 1/4 of a turn after they feel the crush gasket compress. I don't know what the best solution is but the recommended 12-15 fl lbs is too low in my opinion. The difference between 15-30 ft lbs isn't that much but it seems to be enough to prevent them from loosening in my experience. I wouldn't go any higher than 30 ft lbs or you risk stripping the threads in the head.

The rest of the items you mentioned I would consider normal as well. Hopefully I don't have an issue with the HFL. I like that feature and I would rather not have to disconnect it. I don't know what it cost to replace it.
I bought an 07 tech, I stayed away from the Sport because of the shocks and struts. It had 97k on it. I did research before buying. I changed out all of the relays and tested the fuses. The battery was dead when I bought it, dealer put in a new one. It died a week later. Took it back in, they disconnected the HFL and I got a new battery. No more drain (common problem). I had the timing belt and water pump replaced and put in another pcv valve. My only issue which is minor is when I buy cheap gas from like Valero or QT my emission light comes on until I get to Shell or Exxon. Once I burn a half tank the light turns off. Other than that, I did have to replace the struts and shocks which is a fraction of the cost of the Sport version. My next move is the replace the rotors and pads. She running pretty damn good. No leaks!
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Old 02-26-2017, 03:46 PM   #14
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I installed the new plugs today. Am I glad I did. The middle front plug came out by hand! The rubber on the coil boot is covered in blow by. Needless to say it wasn't going to be long before that plug ejected. I installed the new plugs and torqued them to 25 ft lbs. I will recheck them in a few weeks to make sure they haven't loosened up. Usually if they are torqued to 25 ft lbs they don't loosen up. I know it is double what Honda recommends but I don't feel it is too much. Especially with anti seize on the threads since that helps to "lube" the threads while tightening. I did the same when I installed the plugs on my RL with no issues. In fact I installed them on the RL over 50k miles ago. I am going to check them soon to make sure they are still tight.
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Old 02-26-2017, 06:59 PM   #15
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I ordered a bunch of parts tonight. I got Centric rotors from Amazon. I ordered front and rear brake pads, PCV valve, air filter and 3 quarts of DPSF fluid for the rear differential from an online Acura store. Most of the other parts I can get at work, cabin filter for example, but some are Acura only parts. I am having the timing belt, water pump, tensioner and all the external belts replaced next week. I am going to have the valves adjusted as well. All of those parts I can get at work.

The oil and transmission fluid will be getting changed tomorrow.

Once all this is done it should be good for another 100k miles.
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Old 02-27-2017, 12:33 PM   #16
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I installed the new plugs today. Am I glad I did. The middle front plug came out by hand! The rubber on the coil boot is covered in blow by. Needless to say it wasn't going to be long before that plug ejected. I installed the new plugs and torqued them to 25 ft lbs. I will recheck them in a few weeks to make sure they haven't loosened up. Usually if they are torqued to 25 ft lbs they don't loosen up. I know it is double what Honda recommends but I don't feel it is too much. Especially with anti seize on the threads since that helps to "lube" the threads while tightening. I did the same when I installed the plugs on my RL with no issues. In fact I installed them on the RL over 50k miles ago. I am going to check them soon to make sure they are still tight.
I failed to mention I had the spark plugs replaced. I also noticed an increase in low end torque when I had the timing belt changed. I guess something could be said about losing power due to a stretched out timing belt. I noticed as soon as I picked it from the shop.
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Old 03-05-2017, 06:57 PM   #17
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I've got almost everything done. I still need to change the transfer case and differential fluids though. I will get that done this week. I also need to replace a few bulbs around the shifter and heated seat button. I am also going to have the software updated to hopefully correct the thumping sound when first starting the car.

So far I have changed the timing belt, water pump, coolant, serpentine belt, tensioner, spark plugs, pcv valve, air and cabin filters, oil and filter, transmission fluid, replaced all the pads and rotors and adjusted the valves. The sway bar links and bushings were changed before I bought it and the magnetic shocks have been replaced already as well. It is now driving as good as new and ready for the next 100k miles!
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Old 03-06-2017, 08:33 PM   #18
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-HFL Unit going bad which causes a parasitic draw (Yes it is incredibly common on the early 2G) > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hhesmDjyBx0&t=169s
-Driver door sub harness going bad causing a lot of headaches > DIY: Replacing Door Sub-Harness
-Gas cap getting stuck (There is a TSB for it, affects mostly in the freezing states)
-Side mirrors actuators going bad (Affects a lot of vehicles, cheap to replace)

That is what I would select as the most common things to go bad in the Early (07-09) 2G MDX.
I ran into my first odd problem tonight. When I got to work I left all the windows down about halfway. When I got in to go home the rear windows wouldn't go up or down. I could hear a click coming from them when I used the driver's door switch but no movement. I then tried using the switches on the rear doors themselves but that didn't work either. I opened and closed the doors a few times and kept trying the window switches but nothing. Then all of a sudden they started working. I closed them and started to drive home. I tested them every few minutes while driving and they worked properly the entire 45 minute ride home.

Could this issue be related to the door sub harness Skirmich? I haven't noticed any other issues that you had mentioned in your thread but this could be related.

I also noticed that when switching between memory 1 and 2 for the drivers seat it wasn't working the way it does in my RL. It was in the memory 2 position and I wanted to put it on memory 1. In my RL I just hit the position I want and the seat, steering wheel and mirrors would all move to their proper position. In the MDX I had to keep hitting position 1. The seat would move for a second and stop. I would then hit it again and the same thing would happen. I eventually had to hold the memory 1 button down until the seat fully moved into position and the steering wheel and mirrors finished their adjustment. This seemed odd to me but I didn't think about it again until just now.

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Old 03-06-2017, 09:13 PM   #19
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That sounds like a mixed bag of issues...
When mine started to act up it wont allow me to roll down my passenger window and then my drivers, both rears worked until the end, hitting the driver position 1 will move the seat and steering but not the rear view mirrors. Once it got worse there wasnīt a single window that will work and my gas cap would not open which was the most frustrating issue to climb to the rear from the rear seats because the tailgate would not open with either the fob or by the rear switch...

I guess you can look at it, just unplug the cable from the door which is the part that breaks and see the cables? if you see some peeled off and some others just broken then there is your issue.. After inspecting the cable I came to the conclusion that the issue was that the smaller cables are made of solid copper instead of various smaller copper wires, with several cycles to the door the smaller cables will just break from the tension and the bigger ones will peel because of the pulling effect it makes since the cable is very tightly installed.. There is not enough room to move inside the rubber insulator, In my DIY I recommended to leave the retainer clip unplugged so the cable could move around.

The OEM part is less than 30 bucks, I would just recommend to buy it anyway to make sure...

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Old 03-06-2017, 09:28 PM   #20
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That sounds like a mixed bag of issues...
When mine started to act up it wont allow me to roll down my passenger window and then my drivers, both rears worked until the end, hitting the driver position 1 will move the seat and steering but not the rear view mirrors. Once it got worse there wasnīt a single window that will work and my gas cap would not open which was the most frustrating issue to climb to the rear from the rear seats because the tailgate would not open with either the fob or by the rear switch...

I guess you can look at it, just unplug the cable from the door which is the part that breaks and see the cables? if you see some peeled off and some others just broken then there is your issue.. After inspecting the cable I came to the conclusion that the issue was that the smaller cables are made of solid copper instead of various smaller copper wires, with several cycles to the door the smaller cables will just break from the tension and the bigger ones will peel because of the pulling effect it makes since the cable is very tightly installed.. There is not enough room to move inside the rubber insulator, In my DIY I recommended to leave the retainer clip unplugged so the cable could move around.

The OEM part is less than 30 bucks, I would just recommend to buy it anyway to make sure...
I will probably just replace the cable since it appears to be the issue. Weird and inconsistent electrical issues are almost a loose wire or a bad ground. Since the cable is inexpensive and easy to replace I mine as well start with that. Thanks Skirmich!
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Old 03-06-2017, 11:19 PM   #21
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Hey OP, about the memory seat issues. My MDX did that too, I looked it up and it has to do with your power mirrors (do yours click as they are adjusted? A.k.a do they kinda get stuck as they are moving and pop and stuff?). Basically as the car is trying to do the memory settings, it is getting hung up on the power mirrors and stopping, hence why holding it works but pressing it only works in tiny increments. This was yet another thing that drove me mad about my MDX and why I am currently IN LOVE with my new to me currently fully functional car (thank god).
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Old 03-07-2017, 01:13 AM   #22
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Yeah I recall that as well.. If the actuators are failing the DPMS wont work right..
But that doesnīt have anything to do with rolling the windows or the locks.
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Old 03-07-2017, 07:03 AM   #23
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This morning the rear windows wouldn't work again. Same thing as yesterday. I can hear a click coming from the window I am trying to open but no movement. I then opened and slammed the drivers door. What do you know, the windows start working. I am ordering the sub harness. I almost positive that is the issue.

My mirrors are working properly. The memory seat control usually works fine. It must be related to the sub harness issue.
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Old 03-07-2017, 06:07 PM   #24
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I ordered the sub harness cable today. I will post my results after it is installed.
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Old 03-18-2017, 03:25 PM   #25
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I haven't installed the sub harness yet but it has come in. I was out of town on business so I haven't had time to install it. I know that is the issue with the rear windows not working. The rear windows wouldn't work last night. I opened the drivers door and wiggle the sub harness cable. The windows immediately started working. Hopefully I will have time this week to install the harness.

I did notice something strange last night. I shutoff the car and went into a store quickly. When I got back in the car the only cd in the changer had ejected. I know I didn't hit eject. I doubt the sub harness issue is related but maybe it is.
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Old 03-20-2017, 07:34 AM   #26
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Just out of curiosity, which supplier did you buy the harness from? I have an 08 Tech with 65k miles and I've been absorbing a lot of everyone's experiences and filing them away for the future when these issues start to arise on my MDX.

Still i cant complain - I bought the 08 MDX Tech (65k miles) and an 05 RL (127k miles) last month and I'm betting that the two cars combined will be far less problematic than my 03 540i MSport!
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Old 03-20-2017, 09:30 AM   #27
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Just out of curiosity, which supplier did you buy the harness from? I have an 08 Tech with 65k miles and I've been absorbing a lot of everyone's experiences and filing them away for the future when these issues start to arise on my MDX.

Still i cant complain - I bought the 08 MDX Tech (65k miles) and an 05 RL (127k miles) last month and I'm betting that the two cars combined will be far less problematic than my 03 540i MSport!
Sub-Wire, Door (Driver Side) | Genuine Acura | 32757-STX-A00 : Genuine Acura Parts For Less | OEM Acura Parts

I also own a 2005 RL as well. If you have any questions send me a PM.
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Old 03-20-2017, 09:49 AM   #28
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Bookmarked - thank you 👍
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Old Yesterday, 09:51 AM   #29
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I replaced the driver's door sub harness yesterday. Everything is working properly now! Thanks

I checked the wire connections at the door and I found at least one wire that was barely holding on. I bent the cable some and a couple wires broke. It was also covered in brown soupy grease. The new one came coated with electrical grease but not as much as the original one was coated in. I assume water got into it at some point. Thanks again Skirmich!
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Old Yesterday, 04:05 PM   #30
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No problem! But -Jon- is da man to thank I just did the DIY but he told me what to fix.
In any case congrats.
Skirmich is online now   Reply With Quote
 
 
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