Buying a used 2010 MDX...
#1
Buying a used 2010 MDX...
My wife and I are in the market for a used 2010 - 2013 MDX. We've found a used one owner 2010 MDX with ~57,000 miles for $22K. Going to test drive it this Sat. What should we look for to detect this oil consumption problem? Look for soot on tail pipe, have one of us drive behind to check for black smoke ?
#2
Moderator
Hi and Welcome to the Forums!
1..- Its impossible to diagnose the oil consumption issues with a test drive, The issue becomes apparent after topping off the oil a full quart each 1K miles.. The oil consumption issue does not make the pipes black as the oil is consumed in very microscopic amounts for around 1000 miles.
2.- Soot is a by product of Carbon and Water, All MDXs I have seen have soot on its tail pipe as it runs really rich at start up and creates a lot of condensation on the exhaust pipes. So do not skip it because the tailpipe has soot.. Skit it, If it leaves a blue smoke trail on the rear while driving.
If you have any more questions don´t hesitate to ask.
1..- Its impossible to diagnose the oil consumption issues with a test drive, The issue becomes apparent after topping off the oil a full quart each 1K miles.. The oil consumption issue does not make the pipes black as the oil is consumed in very microscopic amounts for around 1000 miles.
2.- Soot is a by product of Carbon and Water, All MDXs I have seen have soot on its tail pipe as it runs really rich at start up and creates a lot of condensation on the exhaust pipes. So do not skip it because the tailpipe has soot.. Skit it, If it leaves a blue smoke trail on the rear while driving.
If you have any more questions don´t hesitate to ask.
Last edited by Skirmich; 03-07-2017 at 01:53 PM.
#4
mrgold35
Do your know if it is a base, tech, or Adv? Does it have Entertainment or not?
I would down load the owner's manual and read up on some of the features: http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/p...0/TX1010OM.pdf
Minor issues I had with my used 11 MDX Adv/Ent mostly covered by the basic warranty were:
- replaced driver 1 key fob because it took 1-4 presses to work
- 2nd row cup holder didn't pop out
- update firmware because of "check charging system" yellow warning light
- 6AT firmware update (update applied to all MDXs after 2012)
- torn front endlink boot
- replaced front magnetic struts
- front passenger side heating pad replaced
- alignment (out of pocket)
- replaced Acura weak ass battery within the 1st year (out of pocket)
- raised the HID level and eventually replaced HID bulbs (to OSRAM CBI, out of pocket)
My MDX has been rock solid for 2 1/2 years after the initial round of problems were resolved. You are out of the 4/50k basic and the 6/70k powertrain warranties. Unless you discover something unusually wrong with the MDX, it will just be tires and fluid changes until the 100K service.
I would down load the owner's manual and read up on some of the features: http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/p...0/TX1010OM.pdf
Minor issues I had with my used 11 MDX Adv/Ent mostly covered by the basic warranty were:
- replaced driver 1 key fob because it took 1-4 presses to work
- 2nd row cup holder didn't pop out
- update firmware because of "check charging system" yellow warning light
- 6AT firmware update (update applied to all MDXs after 2012)
- torn front endlink boot
- replaced front magnetic struts
- front passenger side heating pad replaced
- alignment (out of pocket)
- replaced Acura weak ass battery within the 1st year (out of pocket)
- raised the HID level and eventually replaced HID bulbs (to OSRAM CBI, out of pocket)
My MDX has been rock solid for 2 1/2 years after the initial round of problems were resolved. You are out of the 4/50k basic and the 6/70k powertrain warranties. Unless you discover something unusually wrong with the MDX, it will just be tires and fluid changes until the 100K service.
Last edited by mrgold35; 03-07-2017 at 03:21 PM.
#6
His problems are not really unique to him though, things like weak battery are standard across the Acura board. But the one MAJOR thing on his list that will be important to you is the magnetic shocks (only available on the advanced trim). They just extended the warranty to 100k miles though (forgot how many years) but these things are prone to randomly break and cost like $1200 PER CORNER to replace. So yours may last until right after that warranty or if you are lucky break before.
#7
mrgold35
I put 20,000 miles per year on my MDX and the Adv tech is perfect for hwy cruising and added safety in larger metro areas like LA, Las Vegas, Houston, New Orleans, etc... I wouldn't hesitate to purchase another 10-13 Adv MDX now that Acura has provided an extended 100,000 mile warranty for the magnetic struts/shocks.
I don't use the Adv tech much in my hometown (BSI and cooled seats mostly). I use all the extra tech once I leave the city limits and I wouldn't purchase another car without this level of tech.
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#8
His problems are not really unique to him though, things like weak battery are standard across the Acura board. But the one MAJOR thing on his list that will be important to you is the magnetic shocks (only available on the advanced trim). They just extended the warranty to 100k miles though (forgot how many years) but these things are prone to randomly break and cost like $1200 PER CORNER to replace. So yours may last until right after that warranty or if you are lucky break before.
How do I know if the magnetic shocks are bad?
#9
mrgold35
Some or even all of the symptoms are:
- knocking/clunking sound with suspension travel like driving over a speed bump (this is what I had from front struts at 35K and replaced under the 4/50k warranty)
- leaking shocks/struts
- softer than usual ride and handling
You can feel a difference in comfort compared to sport mode. Comfort has more body roll and a little too bouncy for my taste over normal neighborhood bumps. Sport really keeps the MDX level during turns, acceleration, and braking with a lot less body roll in turns, less squat during acceleration, less dive on braking, and much less bounciness in normal driving over bumps/dips. The ADS button near the gear shift should be up with no green light for sport and depressed with a green light for comfort. The M.I.D. should show for a few seconds which mode you are in with a picture of a MDX with the word "sport" or "comfort" for the mode.
An added monkey wrench is some folks converted the ADS to regular struts/shocks and added a resistor to turn off warning lights before the 100K Acura extended warranty was available (turning an Adv model into a Tech/base model). I don't know how to tell the difference on a test ride if someone did this and traded the MDX in at a non-Acura dealership? Not even sure if the ADS button still works or if it shows anything in the M.I.D. when pressed?
- knocking/clunking sound with suspension travel like driving over a speed bump (this is what I had from front struts at 35K and replaced under the 4/50k warranty)
- leaking shocks/struts
- softer than usual ride and handling
You can feel a difference in comfort compared to sport mode. Comfort has more body roll and a little too bouncy for my taste over normal neighborhood bumps. Sport really keeps the MDX level during turns, acceleration, and braking with a lot less body roll in turns, less squat during acceleration, less dive on braking, and much less bounciness in normal driving over bumps/dips. The ADS button near the gear shift should be up with no green light for sport and depressed with a green light for comfort. The M.I.D. should show for a few seconds which mode you are in with a picture of a MDX with the word "sport" or "comfort" for the mode.
An added monkey wrench is some folks converted the ADS to regular struts/shocks and added a resistor to turn off warning lights before the 100K Acura extended warranty was available (turning an Adv model into a Tech/base model). I don't know how to tell the difference on a test ride if someone did this and traded the MDX in at a non-Acura dealership? Not even sure if the ADS button still works or if it shows anything in the M.I.D. when pressed?
Last edited by mrgold35; 03-08-2017 at 10:23 AM.
#10
Check the copper tubing on the rad, if that goes, you will have coolant/trans fluid mixing.
I would recommend replacing the rad just as a safety measure to avoid that issue.
You can read up on it more on mdxers.org.
I would recommend replacing the rad just as a safety measure to avoid that issue.
You can read up on it more on mdxers.org.
#13
Just found out the 2011 MDX Advance we are planning to go see had an front end accident according to carfax. Owner had the accident 3 months into owning it brand new back in 2011. It was repair by an Acura dealership. Should I or should I not buy this car...?
#14
How much was the damage cost? Can you live with a car knowing it was in an accident?
Now on a separate note, the advance model has the adaptive cruise control sensor in the front bumper, be aware that if that was damaged in the accident, make sure you test it out.
#15
mrgold35
I purchased my 08 RDX used with around 30,000 miles on her from the local Acura dealership in 2010. The Carfax was clean; but, the clear coat started to flake on the front bumper and the driver side front fender was aligned 100%. Acura re-painted and aligned the fender under the basic warranty. Zero problems with paint or panel alignment after +7 years and +100,000 miles. If there were any issues from the accident years ago, I think you would see the evidence now instead of popping up later.
The Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC) and Collision Mitigation Braking System (CMBS) uses the same front sensor behind the plastic cover located in the center of the grill. If the ACC works fine at the 3 different follow ranges (the system brakes, speeds up, maintains intervals, increases the interval space as you speed up), the system should be working normally. The ACC cannot work without the CMBS working also because CMBS is what slows the car down and maintains the MDXs follow intervals.
I don't know how to test just the CMBS other than running into something at hwy speeds and hoping it works (M.I.D. orange flashing warning, loud beeping, aggressive auto braking, front seat belt pre-tensioners kicking in, and ADS shocks stiffening to keep the MDX level). I had it kick in for real on the hwy at 80 mph. It applied the brakes a split second faster than I could have and that extra time gave me time to think to avoid the debris that flew out of back of an open boat. Ended up being an half ass rolled up sleeping bag unsecured in the back of the boat. The CMBS picked up the sleeping bag and went into full emergency braking mode. The only downside to CMBS is if someone is following you too close in full CMBS mode at those speeds.
The Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC) and Collision Mitigation Braking System (CMBS) uses the same front sensor behind the plastic cover located in the center of the grill. If the ACC works fine at the 3 different follow ranges (the system brakes, speeds up, maintains intervals, increases the interval space as you speed up), the system should be working normally. The ACC cannot work without the CMBS working also because CMBS is what slows the car down and maintains the MDXs follow intervals.
I don't know how to test just the CMBS other than running into something at hwy speeds and hoping it works (M.I.D. orange flashing warning, loud beeping, aggressive auto braking, front seat belt pre-tensioners kicking in, and ADS shocks stiffening to keep the MDX level). I had it kick in for real on the hwy at 80 mph. It applied the brakes a split second faster than I could have and that extra time gave me time to think to avoid the debris that flew out of back of an open boat. Ended up being an half ass rolled up sleeping bag unsecured in the back of the boat. The CMBS picked up the sleeping bag and went into full emergency braking mode. The only downside to CMBS is if someone is following you too close in full CMBS mode at those speeds.
Last edited by mrgold35; 03-10-2017 at 09:37 AM.
#16
Carfax also shows car stolen from Maryland, driven to D.C. where accident occurred. Car was disabled and towed to dealership for repair. After that car was aunctioned in Penn. to dealer in Illinois. Car looks pristine according to pictures online. Going to check it out tomorrow (Sat.). My heart is sold on it but my mind tells me otherwise...
#17
I would definitely find another one to look at.
Carfax also shows car stolen from Maryland, driven to D.C. where accident occurred. Car was disabled and towed to dealership for repair. After that car was aunctioned in Penn. to dealer in Illinois. Car looks pristine according to pictures online. Going to check it out tomorrow (Sat.). My heart is sold on it but my mind tells me otherwise...
#18
Walk away.
The price ($22,000) is that of a clean one owner vehicle, not for a wrecked/stolen get-a-way car.
The low miles 57,000, may be because of an issue that makes the owner not want to drive it. Average miles for a 2010 is 84,000.
I bet the seller didn't even pay $14,000 for this auction vehicle.
The price ($22,000) is that of a clean one owner vehicle, not for a wrecked/stolen get-a-way car.
The low miles 57,000, may be because of an issue that makes the owner not want to drive it. Average miles for a 2010 is 84,000.
I bet the seller didn't even pay $14,000 for this auction vehicle.
Last edited by Carpayment4life; 03-10-2017 at 05:01 PM.
#19
I agree, I watch craigslist allot and see most salvage title cars have new model years but with very few miles probably due to all the issues with these cars even after repair, they just sit unused at some poor guys house. A car is never the same after an accident.
#20
Drop it and move on to another OP.
#22
Here are some numbers to shop with.
This year's Consumer Reports car buyers guide is out and these 3 mdx years are the ones to look at (the prices are from BlackBook, you'll need to add $2,500 for the Advance versions):
2010 max trade-in = $16,600 - $20,025 = full clean retail
2012 max trade-in = $22,600 - $26,000 = full clean retail
2013 $25,100 - 28,700
This year's Consumer Reports car buyers guide is out and these 3 mdx years are the ones to look at (the prices are from BlackBook, you'll need to add $2,500 for the Advance versions):
2010 max trade-in = $16,600 - $20,025 = full clean retail
2012 max trade-in = $22,600 - $26,000 = full clean retail
2013 $25,100 - 28,700
#23
2013 Acura MDX Elite
How do you confirm the extension of the warranty? I have heard the warranty on the MDX Elite with the ADS was extended in Canada, how can i confirm it? I am purchasing one and would like to verify.
Thanks
Thanks